MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Modifications & Technical Area => Performance Modifications => Topic started by: Dv21 on April 09, 2013, 11:02:36 pm
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Chaps not sure if this is in the right bit but I have a 05 plate gti I've done a ko4turbo s3 injectors pipewerks downpipe with de-cat milltek rest of the way forge front mount intercooler forge twin intake apr hpfp had the remap done at storm developments when the car boosts it fine when I brake heavy and come to a stop the car stalls has anyone had this before or know what it could be
Thanks Daniel
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Dsg?
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Yes mate
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:signLOL:
Welcome to my hell.
Have you had your car scanned via vcds for faults?
Does it happen in sport or normal mode or just manual?
Has your dog been mapped
Have you had any dsg work under warranty?
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Yeah I did fuel pump electrics malfunction cleared it down hasn't come back tho they are telling me my in tank pump is giving up and I need a s3 one or ttrs one other people are saying its not that I am lost do you have a problem like this ?
And dsg has been mapped
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Car was fine, dsg fine until apr k04 conversion.
When I'm booting it, coming to a stop stalls the car.
The issue I have is psi tuning left a multitude of errors in my ecu non of which I can link to this issue.
In tank pump sounds reasonable as when I'm doing 30mph and no boost/no real fuel demand it doesn't stall.
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If you find the solution could you let me know, I'll do the same for you.
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Yeah will do mate it proper confusing I'm dropping it Friday so they can look into it
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I assume your down south?
Do you know what part number for fuel pump? The ttrs rs3 in tank one
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Yeah I'm in reading Berkshire I have no clue mate tell me does yours drop the revs and sometimes pick up and other times stall ?? Almost like pinking
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Yeah it sometimes very close to stalling, I have done no more than 800miles since the conversion in August though. I was hoping resolving my uneven idle might stop it from stalling. My alternator is causing revs to drop and rise so getting that and my battery replaced next.
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I've probably done even less miles than you I've fitted a new battery I'm thinking it could be mapping never ever did it before conversion I'm really baffled
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Well I'm apr stage 3, loads of people have that map and couldn't find any reference to the issue elsewhere.
Yours is a more custom map.
Maybe related to the custom harness that's made? Incorrect readings sent to ecu?
Im going to swap to the "g" DV too.
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The DV been changed on mine made no differents totally lost
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I was thinking dreaded dsg mech unit.
I tried a dsg reset which did nothing.
I hope it isn't lol that's a 2k job.
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Tell me about it can't be that
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Seems odd but reassuring you both have the same problem, are you mapped by the same tuner?
Do you have low idles? Perhaps this with the heavy decel are causing the stall... In VCDS you can raise the idle iirc.
You'd hope there would be some error code logged each time... Failing that can you run a real time VCDS scan.
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No camfollower mine was mapped by storm developments custom map his is apr I think :confused:
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Car was in garage today no further forward apart from new accelerator pedal being replaced and car only try's to stall when warm someone help me :confused:
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Has the DV been connected to the the intake correctly?
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I would like to think so as was all fitted by a company called j-tech
Storm developments have re-mapped it and checked over the fitting and didn't find anything wrong with it
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Has the DV been connected to the the intake correctly?
Richwig83 when you say correctly is there a wrong way ??
Thanks Daniel
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I need to scan my car so you can see the menu of errors
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:happy2:
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I don't recall having any of yours though.
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Car was in garage today no further forward apart from new accelerator pedal being replaced and car only try's to stall when warm someone help me :confused:
There they are edd666999
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They are the same faults i had when my coil packs was fudged :mad:
New packs and it all went away.
Try swapping with somone.
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Really James thanks for that I will try that mate ill let everyone know soon as I've tried :happy2:
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These are what i had on my car this morning, i have had battery issues remember which could explain the last one.
000257 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0101 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 102190 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 20:27:51
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 5368 /min
Load: 100.0 %
Speed: 141.0 km/h
Temperature: 77.0°C
Temperature: 12.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.605 V
000406 - Engine Oil Temp. Sensor (G8)
P0196 - 004 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 104739 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 15:00:40
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 6.0°C
Temperature: 7.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.049 V
005634 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 002 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: -40.0°C
Temperature: -40.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
Voltage: 0.000 V
I cleared these and went for a spirited drive, and the car cut out twice under hard braking in manual (doesn't seem to do it in sport or "d" and i don't use manual any more for this reason)
after the drive, no error codes at all. so its not flagging up an error when the car stalls. Possibly, fuel, ignition, air, voltage lol
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Hmm we'll it's totally different codes to mine but mine stalls pretty much all the time now I'm really confused
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Hmm we'll it's totally different codes to mine but mine stalls pretty much all the time now I'm really confused
I really can't help but have you tried doing a dsg basic setting as a troubleshooting procedure? If your clutch isn't releasing properly then this could help.
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I tried this and I heard that the clutch should make noises during the reset but mine didn't
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I tried this and I heard that the clutch should make noises during the reset but mine didn't
Hmm, mine was quite loud and clunky at times during the procedure. :confused:
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I tried this and I heard that the clutch should make noises during the reset but mine didn't
Hmm, mine was quite loud and clunky at times during the procedure. :confused:
Maybe I did something wrong, what guide did you follow?
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Mine was reset too but didn't here any noise either
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Maybe I did something wrong, what guide did you follow?
I used Carl's guide and iirc the clunking only occurred when doing the Transmission Tolerances part. http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,24158.0.html
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Engine on or off?
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Engine on or off?
Engine on as per prerequisites:
Fluid Temperature 30...100 °C (86...210 °F), see Measuring Blocks, Group 019.
Selector Lever in P
Ignition ON
Engine ON (Idling) for one minute or more
Brake Pedal operated (hold for the whole procedure)
Throttle Pedal not operated
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ill give it another blast i think.
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I took my car to the phirm today the guys down there are very helpful they spend about 45 mins with me driving testing things the car is booked in a week Saturday but they seem to think its air related fuel is fine so will keep you all updated
Thanks Daniel
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I took my car to the phirm today the guys down there are very helpful they spend about 45 mins with me driving testing things the car is booked in a week Saturday but they seem to think its air related fuel is fine so will keep you all updated
Thanks Daniel
What DV version are you? D or G?
What intake you running?
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What's the differents d-g?? I've got a forge twin intake :laugh:
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What's the differents d-g?? I've got a forge twin intake :laugh:
Can't believe you haven't read the million threads on which DV is best. Look at the part number on yours does it end in d or g.
It's right at the front of the engine bay on ko4 cars.
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Is it the thing with the piston in it ?
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Is it the thing with the piston in it ?
:confused:
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Is it the thing with the piston in it ?
:confused:
It's even more confusing when you don't know what it is lol :laugh:
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Bottom right there's a thick tube and a wire loom going into a black cube, I'd circle it but I'm on the iPad. The black cube is you DV.
Everyone talks about them ripping.
Mine is a "d" going to swap to a "g" to try it out.
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Oh mines a forge one I've tried a brand new oem one still the same :scared:
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Oh mines a forge one I've tried a brand new oem one still the same :scared:
the forge one was proven to lose power wasn't it...
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I have no clue mate
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Oh mines a forge one I've tried a brand new oem one still the same :scared:
the forge one was proven to lose power wasn't it...
That's the forge spacer (for "dump" noises).
Forge DV doesn't lose power, however does need servicing :sad1:
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scanned today and this is back:
000257 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0101 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 102190 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 20:27:51
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 5368 /min
Load: 100.0 %
Speed: 141.0 km/h
Temperature: 77.0°C
Temperature: 12.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.605 V
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Tried a different maf?
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Tried a different maf?
You want to send me yours :D
They aren't exactly cheap i don't think? I'm beginning to think my uneven idle isn't the alternator but possibly a misfiring cylinder at idle.
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Tried a different maf?
You want to send me yours :D
They aren't exactly cheap i don't think? I'm beginning to think my uneven idle isn't the alternator but possibly a misfiring cylinder at idle.
What are your fuel trims reading?
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Tried a different maf?
You want to send me yours :D
They aren't exactly cheap i don't think? I'm beginning to think my uneven idle isn't the alternator but possibly a misfiring cylinder at idle.
What are your fuel trims reading?
That is a very good question :grin:
What blocks do i log? am i logging at idle?
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Block 32 I think :happy2:
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what should they read?
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what should they read?
What intake you running?? Oem or CAi?
Ideally readings as close to 0% but some intakes if non oem may have fuel trim adjust upto 15%!! Typically like Forge Twintake
Evoms and ITG read around 5-6%
Oem around 0-2%
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what should they read?
What intake you running?? Oem or CAi?
Ideally readings as close to 0% but some intakes if non oem may have fuel trim adjust upto 15%!! Typically like Forge Twintake
Evoms and ITG read around 5-6%
Oem around 0-2%
ITG intake, gti running KO4
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what should they read?
What intake you running?? Oem or CAi?
Ideally readings as close to 0% but some intakes if non oem may have fuel trim adjust upto 15%!! Typically like Forge Twintake
Evoms and ITG read around 5-6%
Oem around 0-2%
ITG intake, gti running KO4
If yours reads when you check block 32, you don't need to log it, just read what it says as its an accumulative figure over time. It will give you 2 different figures. Idle figures are as near to zero, certainly under 10% would be acceptable.
If its in the Teens, I would be looking at what's been spoken over, as it means the Ecu is over correcting the fuelling, or trying to compensate a fault that lies elsewhere. :smiley:
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Ed try disconnecting the maf connector and see if your idle improves. With a bad maf it should.
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what should they read?
What intake you running?? Oem or CAi?
Ideally readings as close to 0% but some intakes if non oem may have fuel trim adjust upto 15%!! Typically like Forge Twintake
Evoms and ITG read around 5-6%
Oem around 0-2%
ITG intake, gti running KO4
If yours reads when you check block 32, you don't need to log it, just read what it says as its an accumulative figure over time. It will give you 2 different figures. Idle figures are as near to zero, certainly under 10% would be acceptable.
If its in the Teens, I would be looking at what's been spoken over, as it means the Ecu is over correcting the fuelling, or trying to compensate a fault that lies elsewhere. :smiley:
lambda idle 0.1
lambda partial 7.4%
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so misfires log upto 36 then reset, with no maf plugged in, no misfires.
can i drive the car with no maf to see if it still stalls when breaking?
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so misfires log upto 36 then reset, with no maf plugged in, no misfires.
can i drive the car with no maf to see if it still stalls when breaking?
Your fuel trim values are ok and yes you can drive the car without issue but you will probably get a CEL. :smiley:
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Fixed :laugh: :happy2: :grin: :P
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Fixed :laugh: :happy2: :grin: :P
Oh come on?
You can't leave us all hanging like that. :confused:
What was the problem? Are you 100% it's fixed?
Spill the Beanz :popcornsoda:
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Air mass along side forge twin intake it doesn't like dsg box cause it can't read the correct amount of air when changing down through the box tried standard all ok put back forge problem back :happy2:
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Air mass along side forge twin intake it doesn't like dsg box cause it can't read the correct amount of air when changing down through the box tried standard all ok put back forge problem back :happy2:
I don't think forges Twintake doesn't agree with mine either, my fuel trims won't go lower the 10% correction, and I feel its because of the Twintake.
No running problems though on the road though.
Great news on getting her fixed :happy2:
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glad to the hear you got it all fixed
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Thanks gents and thanks to everyone that helped me along the way with advise :happy2:
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So I have an itg intake, does this mean I have to get rid :(
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So I have an itg intake, does this mean I have to get rid :(
ITG isn't Twintake? :confused:
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So I have an itg intake, does this mean I have to get rid :(
ITG isn't Twintake? :confused:
Yeah but we have exactly the same issue, so i posted on the basis that removing his after market CAI resolved the issue, im aware the twintake and ITG intake are different though lol. :booty:
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Disconnected the MAF and the issue disappears, in fact the car felt the smoothest it ever has!
Is that a fault MAF or CAI do you recon?
How much are MAF's? What the part number i need anyone know?
Thanks
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Sounds like a dying maf to me.
New maf will set you back £120-130 depending on where you get it.
Part number should be 06F906461A but double check the number on your present one.
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I'm off to buy some halfords electrical contact cleaner to give it a clean, £5 might be better than £130 :grin:
Thanks for the part number! Fingers crossed I don't need it
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Just make sure whatever you get doesn't leave a residue.
CRC Air Sensor Clean Mass Air Flow Meter Cleaner is supposedly one of the best to use.
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Whats stopping me driving round with the maf unplugged?
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Whats stopping me driving round with the maf unplugged?
Nothing as the car will use the map sensor for supplying data for the ecu to work out the correct fuelling etc.
afaik the data from the maf is better for the ecu calculations on our cars.
You will get a cel if you run long enough with the maf disconnected but at least you'll know what's causing it.
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i got CEL but the car is so smooth :grin: I have cleaned it and left it to dry over night and see what happens.
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So cleaning the macf made no difference, car still stalls.
I remember reading either here or on us forums that the apr ko4 map isn't keen on aftermarket intakes due to the maf housing not being the same size/shape of oem housing.
Today I set out to try my standard airbox and after taking off the itg intake I found out that I need a slightly different pipe from turbo to the airbox to accommodate the dv that wasn't needed back when I was ko3. So not wanting my afternoon to be wasted I got the other airbox I bought out.
I had planned on chopping this to accommodate the itg anyway so I got to work removing the oem maf housing from the airbox, which I succeeded in doing and it's now in the place of the itg maf housing! Went to the in laws with the mrs so couldn't fully test an all out stop from full boost but the tests I did do were promising. I'm going to have a go tomorrow and see if I can get it to stall, if it does a member on here has offered to lend me the oem pipe I'm missing to fit my standard airbox back, that will tell me if its the maf or the intake.
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Finally gone back to standard airbox and the issue is still happening! So ordered a maf from tps £108. Have to wait till Tuesday however!