MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => How to Guides / Troubleshooting => Topic started by: Paul_zx6r on April 20, 2014, 07:03:12 pm
-
Fitted a complete r32 setup on my car this weekend and the brake pedal goes straight to the floor, I've bled the system about 4 times and there's no air bubbles coming out of the bleed nipples, anyone got any ideas what the problem could be?
-
Did the master cylinder empty of fluid? If so you will need vcds to do an abs bleed.
-
I have the exact same problem. The issue is you now have air inside your lines and ABS pump, as mentioned above. Be careful you don't get air into the clutch cylinder as it's a dual system on modern cars.
The official VW way to bleed the system is mostly at the reservoir and then finish off at each caliper. You'll be best to get it towed to a main dealer or VW specialist independent and have a full brake fluid change as they will purge the system fully. I'm having my car towed to AmD Tuning to rest of the work carried out. If I had VCDS and a reservoir bleeder I'd of dine it all myself, lesson learnt for next time I guess.
-
Did the master cylinder empty of fluid? If so you will need vcds to do an abs bleed.
no the master cylinder never emptied, I was very conscious of checking all the time
-
I have the exact same problem. The issue is you now have air inside your lines and ABS pump, as mentioned above. Be careful you don't get air into the clutch cylinder as it's a dual system on modern cars.
The official VW way to bleed the system is mostly at the reservoir and then finish off at each caliper. You'll be best to get it towed to a main dealer or VW specialist independent and have a full brake fluid change as they will purge the system fully. I'm having my car towed to AmD Tuning to rest of the work carried out. If I had VCDS and a reservoir bleeder I'd of dine it all myself, lesson learnt for next time I guess.
aww great, did you pay much to get it sorted?
-
Did you bleed the clutch also?
See the guide here
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/brake-fluid-and-clutch-bleeding-and-flush-mk5-vw/
Jas
-
Were they new or used discs and pads?
Have you road tested it?
-
I'm still awaiting getting it sorted. If you can still change gear smoothly then you shouldn't need to bleed the couch, not sure whether this gets done in a full brake fluid change + bleed.
-
Were they new or used discs and pads?
Have you road tested it?
they were new pads but used discs
I have road tested it and can change gear fine but have no breaks unless I pump them up
-
Did you bleed the clutch also?
See the guide here
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/brake-fluid-and-clutch-bleeding-and-flush-mk5-vw/
Jas
thanks for the guide, I didn't bleed the clutch, I've taken it down the road and it changes gear fine so not sure if there's air in that part
-
had the same issues--i road tested it and bled the master cylinder and bled the brakes 4 times till they were right
-
had the same issues--i road tested it and bled the master cylinder and bled the brakes 4 times till they were right
Were the calipers free from bubbles the first time you bleed them before road testing it and bleeding the master cylinder?
-
Ive found some info in the technical manuals, it does say each caliper needs bleeding 5 times!! This ties in with what Maxitrol said.
Pre-bleed:
- Connect Brake filler/bleeder unit VAS 5234 .
Bleeding sequence:
1 - Bleed left front and right front brake caliper together
simultaneously
2 - Bleed left rear and right rear brake caliper together
simultaneously
- With bleeder bottle hoses attached, leave bleeder valves
open long enough that brake fluid exits without bubbles.
The hydraulic unit must be bled again with tester VAS
5051 via function "Basic settings" .
Initiate basic setting (to bleed brake system):
VAS 5051 , connecting and selecting functions 45-3,
Connecting Vehicle Diagnostic, Testing and Information
System VAS 5051 and selecting functions .
- Then bleed brake system
Bleeding (normal):
Adhere strictly to work sequence when bleeding brake
system.
- Connect Brake filler/bleeder unit VAS 5234 .
- Open bleeder valves in prescribed sequence and bleed
brake caliper.
1 - Left front brake caliper
2 - Right front brake caliper
3 - Left rear brake caliper
4 - Right rear brake caliper
Use suitable bleeder hose. It must fit tightly on bleeder
valve so that no air can enter brake system.
- With bleeder bottle hose attached, leave bleeder valve
open long enough that brake fluid exits without bubbles.
Subsequent bleeding
A second technician is required to assist:
- Depress brake pedal forcefully and hold.
- Open bleeder valve at brake caliper.
- Press brake pedal down onto stop.
- Close bleeder valve with pedal held down.
- Release brake pedal slowly.
This bleeding procedure must be performed 5 times
per brake caliper.
Bleeding sequence:
1 - Left front brake caliper
2 - Right front brake caliper
3 - Left rear brake caliper
4 - Right rear brake caliper
A road test must be performed after bleeding. During
this, at least one ABS regulation must be performed!
Jas
-
There was still air in mine on the first road test I did and were the same as yours...
-
Paul, did you get this sorted? I'll be doing the same thing soon.
Jas
-
It's in garage getting sorted now so should find out later
-
I'm now in the same situation after fitting new calipers.
I've bled the brakes using the 2 man method, press and hold the pedal etc.
Did this around 4 times in the order shown above, air no longer coming from the calipers.
After the first time, I cycled the abs using vcds, activating abs pump on each Caliper for 30 seconds.
Brake pedal very spongy
Pedal travels to floor before brakes bite
Rear calipers not really doing much
Handbrake not effective.
After a bit if googling I've found that you have to pump the pedal a few times to build pressure before cracking the bleed nipple.
Will give this a go tomorrow and report back.
Jas
-
I fitted S3 brakes today and didn't have any issues with bleeding.
I unscrewed the brakes lines without bleeding the system and only lost a few drops of fluid. I then bled the new brakes one at a time as I installed them.
Doing it this way didn't upset the fluid in the master cylinder so the only air was in the new brake lines
-
Wish I had of done it this way, I've had a new master cylinder fitted and its still not fixed so the garage is sending my abs pump off as they think the seals maybe inverted, its certainly not going to be a cheap fix
-
I re bled the brakes today using two man method, but pumping to build up pressure before releasing nipple.
I bit more air was forced out.
Then went for a test drive, activated abs and re bled again.
Brakes are now functional including handbrake.
Pedal is firm but there is a little more travel than I was expecting. I have used discs with new pads so will let the pads bed in and see if pedal improves, may try bleeding again.
However, car is now driveable :-)
Jas
-
Thought i better update this, I got my car back friday and it turns out that the place where i thought i was getting a bargain paint job have f*cked one of the rear calipers :fighting:
I've got a brakes now but the pads needs a bit of bedding in as theres still a bit of travel in the pedal but its improving with each drive
so i've got a new master cylinder and the garage sent the abs pump off to be be checked and that was fine
-
When I changed the rear calipers on my TDI I had this issues
A pressure bleeding kit done the job for me.
-
I found this worth a read
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/brake-fluid-and-clutch-bleeding-and-flush-mk5-vw/
But remember sometimes it takes a couple of bleeds to get the desired result.
-
Are you all bleeding the clutch same time as brakes out of interest?
-
The whole system was bled about 15 times and there was absolutely no air in it.
It was the caliper causing the problem
-
Sorry I mean in the guides it says to bleed the clutch cylinder under the intake as well as the brakes.
Are you all just doing brakes or doing clutch bleed too?
Im a newbie to this side of cars ;)
-
I've replaced a few abs units on golfs because of the dreaded brake pressure problem, and obviously had to bleed the whole system, firstly I always start by opening a bleed nipple, then pushing the brake pedal to the floor and holding it there with the likes of a jack handle, this then stops the fluid running out of the master cylinder and leaving it dry, I then change said part and bleed the system with a hydraulic brake bleeder. Starting with the wheel most furthest away from the master cylinder, and going round twice gives a good result every time so far. Although you will have a very slight spongy pedal straight away, I find this will disappear once you've driven it and worked the brakes a bit.