MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Modifications & Technical Area => Technical Workshop => Topic started by: JPC on November 02, 2009, 01:28:14 pm
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Hi Guys,
Just wanted to pick the brains of some of our more hands on members.
When it comes to my car, there is generally no expense spared when it comes to mods, if its a job is worth doing its worth doing right 100% first time round. So things like alignment after lowering etc is done no questions asked.
But, i myself, am pretty good as hands of stuff, as many of you know, my car is pretty modded (OEM+ style) and ive done most myself. Ive just recently changed all the beige interior headlining and ancillaries to Black GTi ones. So i consider myself pretty handy like that.
One thing though, that has daunted me and ive never looked into doing, is changing/bleeding my brakes. Mainly due to the consequences, but it would be so much handier for me to be competent whilst swapping the brakes on my car.
Ive got an ample working environment with my detailing unit.
Ive had S3 rears for nearly a year now and not fitted them.
I have heard its relatively easy, once your familiar with it. Im sure there are members on here that would be completely put off by doing a headlining swap, but could p1ss a brake bleed!
Oh and btw...its not completely foreign to me, I've bled my brakes on my downhill and XC bike.
any input is welcome, even if its "get someone else to do it"
:pomppomp: :pomppomp: :pomppomp: :pomppomp:
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go to halfords and get an easy bleed kit makes it easy for u :smiley:
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well, i was thinking about that, but id prefer to use a system that doesnt use a spare wheel. i dont mind paying a bit more.
Would this do?
http://www.tooled-up.com/ManProduct.asp?PID=109708&referrer=google&gclid=CMHUudzG7J0CFUtp4wodcmm3MA
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ive just had a look into this,
http://www.golfmkv.net/blog/archives/12
It seems pretty handy and informative.
I just wondered, is there any particular sequence i need to use (front drivers, rear drivers side etc)?
If i wanted to change the brake fluid, do i need to let it drain, then put new fluid in?
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thats what i have and its great i have used it twice on my mk5 and many times on other cars . 100% recomend
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ive just had a look into this,
http://www.golfmkv.net/blog/archives/12
It seems pretty handy and informative.
I just wondered, is there any particular sequence i need to use (front drivers, rear drivers side etc)?
If i wanted to change the brake fluid, do i need to let it drain, then put new fluid in?
always work from the away from the m/c i.e rear pass then rear drivers then front pass then front drivers
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cheers mate, do you know how much the system holds? i guess its about 500-600ml?
if so i guess ill be bleeding out 100ml or so on each brake caliper, i better buy a Litre of Fluid right? just to be on the safe side
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ive just had a look into this,
http://www.golfmkv.net/blog/archives/12
It seems pretty handy and informative.
I just wondered, is there any particular sequence i need to use (front drivers, rear drivers side etc)?
If i wanted to change the brake fluid, do i need to let it drain, then put new fluid in?
always work from the away from the m/c i.e rear pass then rear drivers then front pass then front drivers
thanks mate
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mine holds 2l i think . i aways use 1l and try to do 2 cars at the same time
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ok mate, cheers, i guess that goes for topping up fluid?
whats the procedure with completely wanting to flush out old oil and use some proper brake fluid?
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:sad:
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i syringe fluid out of the resiviour then connect the bleeder and bleed till its nice a clean
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Ok mate, thanks for that.
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man of your talents a piece of P*ss :happy2: just dont be scared of it.
cant say as Ive always got on well with these pressurised systems but then I'm old enough to know old school easibleed and old fluid that used to eat paintwork on contact :signLOL:
when removing calipers etc a good tip is to remove the master cylinder cap , cover with cling film and replace :happy2:, then almost no fluid is lost.
dunno if the mk5 is a diagonal split system (prob is) , so best to refer to manual for order of bleeding.
cleanliness is utmost
and dont do things like shaking the fluid bottle !
dont hit the brake pedal without anything between the calipers ......
just think twice before u do anything and youll be fine :happy2:
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Thanks for the pointers john, I'm sure I'll crack it when the time comes, it will be great when I do! Lol
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the way i said has worked twice for me on my mk5
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OK, you've all failed to mention about the ABS/ESP - that will need 'activating' - either via VCDS, or with some lateral 'thinking' on a deserted grassy field <whistles> . . .
Secondly, you need to bleed at LEAST 250ml from each nipple, and for you manual boys, don't forget the clutch.
On modern ABS systems, there isn't really any need for any specific order, but belt and braces would be front right > front left > rear right > rear left > clutch, cycle ABS/ESP - and then repeat.
Oh, the two-man method is still the best way - especially as it helps prevent 'step wear' in the master cylinder.
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2 guys
1 guy pump 10 times for front 20 times for rear, cap up when needed by 2 guy, done it 3 times, works every time
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2 guys
1 guy pump 10 times for front 20 times for rear, cap up when needed by 2 guy, done it 3 times, works every time
But unless you regularly 'exercise' your ABS, then there will be stale fluid in there, and this DOES cause expensive probs on the inferior Teves units. Just hop over to a Touran forum, or even a BMW forum.
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2 guys
1 guy pump 10 times for front 20 times for rear, cap up when needed by 2 guy, done it 3 times, works every time
But unless you regularly 'exercise' your ABS, then there will be stale fluid in there, and this DOES cause expensive probs on the inferior Teves units. Just hop over to a Touran forum, or even a BMW forum.
By that you mean using them right?? :smiley:
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As some of you may have seen i recentley installed a BBK and rear S3s with the good old school method and had no issus at all. Just work furthest to nearest with someone pumping the pedal for you and engine running for the ABS system. And DO make sure you dont let the res run dry or it will get a whole lot more complicated. Stick to this and you will not go wrong. What helps aswell is if you just have an empty bottle with the hose running off the bleed nipple into fluid so as you release the pedal slowly no air is being sucked back as it is in fluid.
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2 guys
1 guy pump 10 times for front 20 times for rear, cap up when needed by 2 guy, done it 3 times, works every time
But unless you regularly 'exercise' your ABS, then there will be stale fluid in there, and this DOES cause expensive probs on the inferior Teves units. Just hop over to a Touran forum, or even a BMW forum.
By that you mean using them right?? :smiley:
Yes - sort of.
Most of us will probably exercise the fronts, with a bit of traction control intervention. But the rear circuits are considerably harder to work. You generally need to be getting the r-send very loose on a regular basis to purge the fluid.
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As some of you may have seen i recentley installed a BBK and rear S3s with the good old school method and had no issus at all. Just work furthest to nearest with someone pumping the pedal for you
Nope - you work nearest first.
and engine running for the ABS system.
Huh, firstly, you should NEVER bleed brakes with the engine running. And secondly, care to elaborate how an engine running during brake bleeding activates the ABS?
Some very bad advice there! :scared: