MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: dazza on May 18, 2015, 11:12:37 am
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Started stripping everything out to get the engine mount out.
Have a question about putting the car in TDC. The hanes manual shows there should be a mark on the crankshaft pulley but i cant see any marks??
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it's more of a 'nick' on the inner lip
you can set the cam to position then look for the mark on the bottom pulley
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Thanks mate found it now. My cam belt cover is one piece so it's not easy to see that top marks either. Can i set it to TDC after jacking it up and removing the engine mount and belt cover?
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there should be an arrow on the belt cover around the 2 o clock position
yes can set to tdc whenever you like as long as you have bottom pulley on (and obviously belt)
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Hi Dazza, apparently single piece cambelt cover is a PITA as its trickier to remove on an AXX and some BWA with the single piece cover (been superseded with two piece later on), believe you have to shift the whole engine and box across to remove the cover. If you plan on keeping the car change to a two piece if possible (if part are cheap enough). I vaguely remember cambelt changes on my old AXX being priced higher due to the additional labour time involved. Never done it personally but remember being informed about this on a couple of occasions. :happy2:
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yea the 1 piece are a pita
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there should be an arrow on the belt cover around the 2 o clock position
yes can set to tdc whenever you like as long as you have bottom pulley on
I can see the top mark would prefer to have the cover off to make sure its perfect. I have DIY paranoia AGAIN.
Hi Dazza, apparently single piece cambelt cover is a PITA as its trickier to remove on an AXX and some BWA with the single piece cover (been superseded with two piece later on), believe you have to shift the whole engine and box across to remove the cover. If you plan on keeping the car change to a two piece if possible (if part are cheap enough). I vaguely remember cambelt changes on my old AXX being priced higher due to the additional labour time involved. Never done it personally but remember being informed about this on a couple of occasions. :happy2:
So removing the engine mount is not enough to get the cover off?
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Vaguely recall something about gearbox mount off as well so you can shift the whole engine and box across to remove the cover. Someone with some practical experience on here should confirm or dismiss this :smiley:
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you should be able to get it off without moving engine over with he right tools, it's just fiddly work.
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Pic of cover with bolts needed to remove for reference
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done one the other day on an axx
had to remove the exhaust from the turbo and driveshafts to get the room i did not touch the gearbox mount :wink:
i was on a 2 post ramp with air tools in a friend's garage he advised me that's what he does on golf's with a one piece cover so i just cracked on and removed it all
Dan..
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Thanks guys i will continue with the original plan. Get the mount out.
I can already see a potential problem one of the 6 pulley bolts is nearly rounded completely.
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So the bolts are out of the mount. Lifted the engine a bit its also moved back a lot.
Whats the best way to get the mount out. Don't want to push it up anymore.
Just my luck the beater broke down when i went to pick the kids up from school. Wife not impressed having to walk home.
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The mount is out.
The cover came out easy getting the mount out of the cover was a bit of a PITA. Just incase any one else has to do it the left hand side of the mount comes out first.
Will be replacing with a two piece cover.
Managed to get the beater going with the help of the Golf battery.
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Can anyone confirm the torque settings??
Engine mounting
Limiter???
20nm + 90º
Mounting to engine
60nm + 90º
Mounting to body
40nm + 90º
Timing belt idler roller (aren't they both the same size)
Large 40nm
Small 25nm
Timing belt tensioner roller.
Turbo without split cover 23nm
Turbo with split cover 25nm
The Hanes manual i have does not list my engine code so want to double check everything.
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Went to the stealers this morning. There is no new revision belt cover for the AXX. So i bought the one from a different motor. Hopefully it will fit??
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as long as it's tfsi yes, i fitted a 2011 CDL cover to my 2005 BUL - assuming you bought the lot
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as long as it's tfsi yes, i fitted a 2011 CDL cover to my 2005 BUL - assuming you bought the lot
I bought the two pieces and new bolts.
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Water pump and idlers are in.
Still don't trust the hanes torque specs.
Read this on another forum.
Can anyone confirm?
Tensioner centre bolt 25NM,
water pump 15NM
idler roller rear and just below the water pump 35NM
idler roller above water pump 25NM
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i'd nip up the water pump a bit more personally, had to swap out a AXX engine after the water pump bolt fell out into the crank pulley, made a nice mess. :sad1:
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The belt is on just waiting on the new cover. Got it one tooth out the first time. Will triple check tomorrow when i put the pulley back on.
Got the main stat out hopefully will finish this all off tomorrow.
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:congrats: top DIY'er !! :notworthy:
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:congrats: top DIY'er !! :notworthy:
We will see knowing my luck the engine will fall out.
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Coolant pump to cylinder block - 15nm (11 ft-lb)
Crankshaft ribbed belt pulley to crankshaft - 10nm (7 ft-lb) + additional 90 degrees. Renew bolts
Timing belt cover to engine - 10nm (7 ft-lb)
Timing belt tensioner roller to tensioner - 25nm (15 ft-lb)
That's all I can find in my mk5 gti bentley manual
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Thanks again for all you help guys. No way i could get through these DIY's without a bit of help.
Pretty gutted with my self chipped the wing. :sad1:
Bit late now but bodged a fix with some leatherette from the boot build and some magnets left over from my numberplate.
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Cant believe its all done.
Only having one inline stat had me stumped for a while considering its DSG.
I really enjoyed the cam belt part of the job everything went to plan. The thermostat was a bit of a PITA.
The car is warming up nicely needle hit 90 quicker than ever. Polar is showing 90º to 95º.
The two piece cover made it much easier to get the mount back in. And the bottom TDC mark is much more noticeable.
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