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21

How to Guides / Troubleshooting / Mk5 drivers door lock issue. Ive tried everything.

« Last post by Fckfvd on July 12, 2025, 02:56:55 pm »

Hello guys, im new here. I brought a edition 30 cheap 3 years ago that needed engine work. All done, runs a dream. A month or so ago my drivers door lock stopped working.
Ive been a mechanic for 10 years and this one has got me stumped.
I know mk5s are notorious for door lock problems and was well aware of the normal faults. My drive door no longer locks or unlocks from the remote. It also doesn't recognise if the drivers door is open or closed.
Ive replaced the door lock actuator, first fitted a cheap ebay one this didn’t fix it so replaced with a tps genuine one, still the same.
Rewired the entire door loom -this didnt change anything so replaced it with one off a working car. fitted the loom i made to the other car which works fine on that vehicle.
Swapped the door module (window motor) with a known working one. Again no difference. Made sure the part numbers of all replaced part were correct they are indeed.
I dont have access to vagcom but do have a bosch kts.

Fault codes
0610- drivers door lock motor electrical fault
0060- drivers central locking fault in circuit
03a0- drivers lock position signal implausible.

Passenger door and boot. Lock and unlock perfectly and vehicle recognises if they are open.
Fuse is fine.
I have tested for voltage at the plug and i have voltage at the door lock plug. However when you actuate the key theres no switching or change. Everything else on the drivers door work. Ie, fuel flap and window and door lock boot.
ANY IDEAS?
Ive looked at wiring diagrams and nothing looks wrong. The only thing that did happen recently is i lowered the window fully once and it suddenly said my door was open? I closed the window and its not done it since.

Any ideas would be really appreciated.

22

Mk5 General Area / Re: rough idle/misfire without fault code

« Last post by GVK on July 11, 2025, 08:43:16 pm »

Never seen them melt before

23

Mk5 General Area / Re: Low oil pressure caused by PCV?

« Last post by ZoliWorks on July 11, 2025, 04:50:28 pm »

Not exactly plug and play though as you have to drop the pump and drill into it, so as it says on the page, a last resort. Would be good to know the oil pressure numbers at the different RPMs before taking a decision on where to throw time and money.

And with the sump/pump dropped, you should go ahead and install a "Wasa Motor Oil Pressure Fix".

https://wasamotor.com/shop/vw-audi-skoda-and-seat/tfsi-2-0-ea113/oil-pump-balance-shaft/wasa-oil-pressure-fix/

Better safe than sorry 

I haven't dropped my oil pan yet but once I do, I'm replacing those sprayers and adding this oil pressure fix along with a freewheel. Plus changing the chain and tensioner cause why not.

24

Mk5 General Area / Re: Low oil pressure caused by PCV?

« Last post by mjmallia on July 11, 2025, 03:33:28 pm »

More than likely the oil pickup and or the oil feed lines need a clean out.  Happened to me early on in ownership due to poor maintenance.

25

Mk5 General Area / Re: rough idle/misfire without fault code

« Last post by hcmzah on July 11, 2025, 02:16:46 pm »

what causes these to melt, does anyone know?

26

Mk5 General Area / Re: rough idle/misfire without fault code

« Last post by generalen15 on July 11, 2025, 12:41:39 pm »

UPDATE! i did check live data on misfires and it misfired alot on cyl 2 and very few on cyl 3 so i tried swaping plugs and coil but with no progress so my only thought was ''well the new services injector must be bad'' on cyl 2 and cyl 3 so i was gonna try to swap them with 2 of my old ones that i know is in working condition but when i remove the intake i notice cyl 2 runner flap was very melted so that must be the problem, so now i just need to order a working manifold and see if the problem will be fixed after that...


Honestly at this point just get one of those ebay/aliexpress runner flap delete kits and re-map your car for an RF delete. If you dont remap, you'll have cold start misfires.

Good thing you caught it in time tho. If the engine sucked it in, it would have been very bad.

Still, I would do a compression and leakdown test on that specific cylinder. I have a hard time accepting that only cyl 2 got melted while the rest look fine. Maybe a valve isnt closing properly and exhaust gasses bypass back into the intake? Or worn out/pitted camshaft lobes are messing with the valve making it not seal properly.

yes, the plan is to check the compression and build up on cyl 2 and i will do flap delete on the other intake that i will buy. maybe a dumb question ticking lifter on these engines cant cause exhaust gases in intake right? cause i have 1 or 2 ticking lifter that im was gonna take care of in like 2-3 weeks when my colleague is back at work, and i can mention that the day all this happend i was crusing at 160kmh and the car started misfire like crazy on cyl 2 and i had to drive for like 5-10 min at 80 kmh behind a truck until nearest truckstop, couldnt that overheat and melt the plastic?

27

Mk5 General Area / Re: Low oil pressure caused by PCV?

« Last post by OllieVRS on July 11, 2025, 12:36:13 pm »

Not exactly plug and play though as you have to drop the pump and drill into it, so as it says on the page, a last resort. Would be good to know the oil pressure numbers at the different RPMs before taking a decision on where to throw time and money.

And with the sump/pump dropped, you should go ahead and install a "Wasa Motor Oil Pressure Fix".

https://wasamotor.com/shop/vw-audi-skoda-and-seat/tfsi-2-0-ea113/oil-pump-balance-shaft/wasa-oil-pressure-fix/

28

Mk5 General Area / Re: Low oil pressure caused by PCV?

« Last post by ZoliWorks on July 11, 2025, 12:13:05 pm »

And with the sump/pump dropped, you should go ahead and install a "Wasa Motor Oil Pressure Fix".

https://wasamotor.com/shop/vw-audi-skoda-and-seat/tfsi-2-0-ea113/oil-pump-balance-shaft/wasa-oil-pressure-fix/

29

Mk5 General Area / Re: rough idle/misfire without fault code

« Last post by ZoliWorks on July 11, 2025, 12:07:39 pm »

UPDATE! i did check live data on misfires and it misfired alot on cyl 2 and very few on cyl 3 so i tried swaping plugs and coil but with no progress so my only thought was ''well the new services injector must be bad'' on cyl 2 and cyl 3 so i was gonna try to swap them with 2 of my old ones that i know is in working condition but when i remove the intake i notice cyl 2 runner flap was very melted so that must be the problem, so now i just need to order a working manifold and see if the problem will be fixed after that...

Honestly at this point just get one of those ebay/aliexpress runner flap delete kits and re-map your car for an RF delete. If you dont remap, you'll have cold start misfires.

Good thing you caught it in time tho. If the engine sucked it in, it would have been very bad.

Still, I would do a compression and leakdown test on that specific cylinder. I have a hard time accepting that only cyl 2 got melted while the rest look fine. Maybe a valve isnt closing properly and exhaust gasses bypass back into the intake? Or worn out/pitted camshaft lobes are messing with the valve making it not seal properly.

30

Mk5 General Area / Re: rough idle/misfire without fault code

« Last post by generalen15 on July 11, 2025, 11:35:08 am »

UPDATE! i did check live data on misfires and it misfired alot on cyl 2 and very few on cyl 3 so i tried swaping plugs and coil but with no progress so my only thought was ''well the new services injector must be bad'' on cyl 2 and cyl 3 so i was gonna try to swap them with 2 of my old ones that i know is in working condition but when i remove the intake i notice cyl 2 runner flap was very melted so that must be the problem, so now i just need to order a working manifold and see if the problem will be fixed after that...