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URGENT oil pressure stop engine

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Pesky jones:
In my mind I still have several options and id really like to narrow it down.

1)   Inspect crankshaft for wear, inspect oil pump in situ (if I can access it), observe valves, remove cam cover and inspect chain and tensioner. Hopefully find some type of definitive reason for engine cutting out/not turning on and go from there
2)   Tow it to a trusted garage forty minutes away and have them inspect it fair bit of cost for towing and inspection but then ill have an answer.
3)   Cut my losses now and realise that I need a new engine 

Thanks

Pesky jones:
Dazza has offered to lend me his cam locking tool  :notworthy: If I can get the engine to TDC, then the cam locking tool should slide into place between the two cams. This will confirm whether or not there have been any jumps in the timing (wont go in if not correctly timed). I'd say this is worth doing, right?

Can I get the engine to what should be TDC from the crankshaft or if I expose the camshaft ends at the cam chain end, can I do it from there?

r5gtt:
That's very kind of @dazza  :happy2:

There are also notches on the chain but I guess you won't know what to look for when timing them up.

Good luck  :smiley:

dazza:
happy to help out.

You turn the crank to get it to TDC.

I think you have the old style cam belt cover with the window so remove the window.

Find the indent in the black metal plate behind the crank pulley add some tipex to it and the indent in the pulley like pic below.

Turn the crank until they line up.

Pesky jones:
How hard is to remove the cam belt upper cover Daz?

My plan tonight is to rotate the crankshaft to TDC using marks. Remove cambelt cover, check if it is now at TDC by checking notches on cambelt pulley line up. Remove valve cover. Remove cam cover. Are there any timing indications at this end of the head? and finally fit locking tool to ensure that timing is correct. Check cam chain for play, damage, wear etc.

Tomorrow morning when marius is with me im going to remove the oil pump cover (I think this is just some tabs I need to press in to remove) to check the sprockets and chain, and at the other end check the balance shafts. if anyone has any advice on this it would be much appreciated! In the Haynes manual it says you can strip it back in situ, although im not sure how far I can go before I have to replace the bolts (apparently 600£?!)

Also I have a boroscope from work so Ill see if that comes in handy.

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