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Author Topic: Anyone bought an in-tank fuel pump recently?  (Read 244 times)

Offline Pudding

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Anyone bought an in-tank fuel pump recently?
« on: July 28, 2022, 12:27:11 pm »
1K0919051DB is the current part number, which covers all EA113 2.0T FSI vehicles according to ECS tuning.  Made by Siemens VDO.

AutoDoc says "Sorry, this part is not suitable for your vehicle" (2007 ED30).

If you do a search on VDO A2C53438283Z, ebay's compatibility list also states it's not compatible.

Currently fitted to my car = 1K0919051DB  :grin: which I got from the dealer 5ish years ago, which obviously came from their parts system.

So I'm now thinking, WTF?  Do I have the wrong pump in my car, or are AutoDoc/Ebay talking sh1t?  :grin:




2007 ED30 | 2009 TDI 140

Offline ROH ECHT

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Re: Anyone bought an in-tank fuel pump recently?
« Reply #1 on: July 28, 2022, 03:48:53 pm »
It, 1K0919051DB, fits and works. It is also listed as the replacement for my EA113 as well. My understanding is that it is the TSI (EA888) pump, because it came with the later GTI's and subsequently became the replacement for earlier MK5's. It states the pressure limit is 94 psi or 6.48 bar....rather than what the original 6.6 bar pump provided (if they did so). I remember my replacement, in 2020, was also listed as a 6.4 bar LPFP.

I believe it is near impossible to find the earlier LPFP's. Which had the level sender mounted externally on the LPFP basket and you could more easily replace the pump within the basket with an upgrade. I believe the pn for it was 1K0-919-051-AP. I have my original basket, minus the pump...so I could check for you. Just not sure where I would find the part number on it.

« Last Edit: July 28, 2022, 04:13:31 pm by ROH ECHT »
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Offline Pudding

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Re: Anyone bought an in-tank fuel pump recently?
« Reply #2 on: July 28, 2022, 04:19:09 pm »
Cheers ROH, the DB pump has been in for ages and seems to work, but I'm still chasing some drivability issues.

Currently - Cranking time to fire up is getting longer. Intermittent stalling attempts at idle after an hour's drive (it stutters down to 400ish rpm then bounces back up) and low rail pressure faults in any map setting other than stock.

That all seems like classic fuel supply issues to me.  Apart from the LPFP and injectors, literally everything else on the car is new or < 1 yr old.

Injectors were done 80ish K miles ago.  It could be them causing the problems but I'm working my way through the easy and cheap options first  :grin:

The car is going very soon anyway, but I'm solving issues for the next owner.  Because I'm nice like that.







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Offline ROH ECHT

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Re: Anyone bought an in-tank fuel pump recently?
« Reply #3 on: July 28, 2022, 05:18:08 pm »
Cheers ROH, the DB pump has been in for ages and seems to work, but I'm still chasing some drivability issues.

Currently - Cranking time to fire up is getting longer. Intermittent stalling attempts at idle after an hour's drive (it stutters down to 400ish rpm then bounces back up) and low rail pressure faults in any map setting other than stock.

That all seems like classic fuel supply issues to me.  Apart from the LPFP and injectors, literally everything else on the car is new or < 1 yr old.

Injectors were done 80ish K miles ago.  It could be them causing the problems but I'm working my way through the easy and cheap options first  :grin:

The car is going very soon anyway, but I'm solving issues for the next owner.  Because I'm nice like that.
Yeah, the '-DB' should work fine...I really do not know when it became the replacement for the other style.

The only way I know of to test the low side for return-to-tank leaking is with a gauge. So the LPFP and filter 'return valves' can be checked without the LPFP constantly priming from the key being on. Once those (and the control module) are confirmed OK, then you can proceed checking the high side bits. Could be the injectors, now at 80k miles. If those are confirmed OK, all you have left is the: fuel pressure sensors_HPFP itself_or even the rail pressure limiting valve. Have you attempted logging fuel pressure data while driving normally? Is your rail pressure data showing rail pressure rising or dropping after a hot shutdown? I watch both high and low after shutting it down when hot to see if the high side drops and the low side increases at the same moment. This tells you it is the rail's limiting valve.

Have you drilled out the low pressure delivery restriction to 5mm yet? It will reduce the work load of the LPFP, but I don't believe it would be the fix for the symptoms. I assume yours has the Banjo bolt; so the restriction is in the inlet of the metal tubing near the front of the engine, where the hoses connect to them. Which I am sure you know.

K04 PLAY...K04 turbo/S3 INJ. & FMIC/FORGE FMTC, TB hose, & WG actuator/GIAC's H.O. K04 & DSG TUNES/AWE DV/NEUSPEED P-FLO,TURBO OUTLET & TB pipe/AUTOTECH hpfp/BSH Eng.&Trans Mounts/H&R ARB's/Whiteline Performance springs & W.A.L.K./ECS stage-3 BBK/BILSTEIN B8's...ZOOM'DIS...GIAC K04 tune-2007 Volkswagen GTI: 12.823 @ 112.050 MPH__Voting for my Dragtimes link: http://www.dragtimes.com/Volkswagen-GTI-Timeslip-25700.html?r=1

Offline Pudding

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Re: Anyone bought an in-tank fuel pump recently?
« Reply #4 on: July 29, 2022, 08:27:00 am »
Cheers ROH, the DB pump has been in for ages and seems to work, but I'm still chasing some drivability issues.

Currently - Cranking time to fire up is getting longer. Intermittent stalling attempts at idle after an hour's drive (it stutters down to 400ish rpm then bounces back up) and low rail pressure faults in any map setting other than stock.

That all seems like classic fuel supply issues to me.  Apart from the LPFP and injectors, literally everything else on the car is new or < 1 yr old.

Injectors were done 80ish K miles ago.  It could be them causing the problems but I'm working my way through the easy and cheap options first  :grin:

The car is going very soon anyway, but I'm solving issues for the next owner.  Because I'm nice like that.
Yeah, the '-DB' should work fine...I really do not know when it became the replacement for the other style.

The only way I know of to test the low side for return-to-tank leaking is with a gauge. So the LPFP and filter 'return valves' can be checked without the LPFP constantly priming from the key being on. Once those (and the control module) are confirmed OK, then you can proceed checking the high side bits. Could be the injectors, now at 80k miles. If those are confirmed OK, all you have left is the: fuel pressure sensors_HPFP itself_or even the rail pressure limiting valve. Have you attempted logging fuel pressure data while driving normally? Is your rail pressure data showing rail pressure rising or dropping after a hot shutdown? I watch both high and low after shutting it down when hot to see if the high side drops and the low side increases at the same moment. This tells you it is the rail's limiting valve.

Have you drilled out the low pressure delivery restriction to 5mm yet? It will reduce the work load of the LPFP, but I don't believe it would be the fix for the symptoms. I assume yours has the Banjo bolt; so the restriction is in the inlet of the metal tubing near the front of the engine, where the hoses connect to them. Which I am sure you know.

I've not done that check, so will try that next, thanks. Rail pressures during a normal drive were fine when last checked a few months ago, apart from an occasional -25+ bar deficit in the meat of the boost.

Yeah I did the 5mm drill thing, not that it made any difference.  I was always in two minds about doing that. The original hole diameter was probably there to build a head of pressure.  I can't see them deliberately restricting it like that for any other reason, but it's done now and can't be undrilled  :grin:

Mine is the later rubber inlet hose variety thankfully.

Typically it drove and idled perfectly this morning. Intermittent issues are the worst.


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Offline ROH ECHT

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Re: Anyone bought an in-tank fuel pump recently?
« Reply #5 on: August 02, 2022, 07:19:29 pm »
Cheers ROH, the DB pump has been in for ages and seems to work, but I'm still chasing some drivability issues.

Currently - Cranking time to fire up is getting longer. Intermittent stalling attempts at idle after an hour's drive (it stutters down to 400ish rpm then bounces back up) and low rail pressure faults in any map setting other than stock.

That all seems like classic fuel supply issues to me.  Apart from the LPFP and injectors, literally everything else on the car is new or < 1 yr old.

Injectors were done 80ish K miles ago.  It could be them causing the problems but I'm working my way through the easy and cheap options first  :grin:

The car is going very soon anyway, but I'm solving issues for the next owner.  Because I'm nice like that.
Yeah, the '-DB' should work fine...I really do not know when it became the replacement for the other style.

The only way I know of to test the low side for return-to-tank leaking is with a gauge. So the LPFP and filter 'return valves' can be checked without the LPFP constantly priming from the key being on. Once those (and the control module) are confirmed OK, then you can proceed checking the high side bits. Could be the injectors, now at 80k miles. If those are confirmed OK, all you have left is the: fuel pressure sensors_HPFP itself_or even the rail pressure limiting valve. Have you attempted logging fuel pressure data while driving normally? Is your rail pressure data showing rail pressure rising or dropping after a hot shutdown? I watch both high and low after shutting it down when hot to see if the high side drops and the low side increases at the same moment. This tells you it is the rail's limiting valve.

Have you drilled out the low pressure delivery restriction to 5mm yet? It will reduce the work load of the LPFP, but I don't believe it would be the fix for the symptoms. I assume yours has the Banjo bolt; so the restriction is in the inlet of the metal tubing near the front of the engine, where the hoses connect to them. Which I am sure you know.

I've not done that check, so will try that next, thanks. This guy shows how to do this:


Yeah I did the 5mm drill thing, not that it made any difference.  I was always in two minds about doing that. The original hole diameter was probably there to build a head of pressure.  I can't see them deliberately restricting it like that for any other reason, but it's done now and can't be undrilled  :grin: The purpose for the small hole is actually to restrict or dampen fuel backflow. There's a moment in the hpfp upstroke, the N276 is still open and fuel goes back into the low delivery side. SSP 334 says; "The inlet valve (N276) also remains open when the pump plunger starts its upwards movement in order to adjust fuel quantity to actual consumption. The pump plunger presses excess fuel back into the low pressure section. The resulting pulses are dampened by the fuel-pressure attenuator and a restrictor in the fuel supply line."

Mine is the later rubber inlet hose variety thankfully.

Typically it drove and idled perfectly this morning. Intermittent issues are the worst.

Drilling the restricor generally helps when tuning increases fueling demands. Typically, after the drilling, one will see the 'LPFP - Load% (MB-Group 231)' data drop at full throttle. But this all depends again on the fueling meeting the demands of its tuning. Also, LPFP Load% would need to be noted prior to and after drilling to notice any difference it may have made in the LPFP work load%.
« Last Edit: August 02, 2022, 07:22:25 pm by ROH ECHT »
K04 PLAY...K04 turbo/S3 INJ. & FMIC/FORGE FMTC, TB hose, & WG actuator/GIAC's H.O. K04 & DSG TUNES/AWE DV/NEUSPEED P-FLO,TURBO OUTLET & TB pipe/AUTOTECH hpfp/BSH Eng.&Trans Mounts/H&R ARB's/Whiteline Performance springs & W.A.L.K./ECS stage-3 BBK/BILSTEIN B8's...ZOOM'DIS...GIAC K04 tune-2007 Volkswagen GTI: 12.823 @ 112.050 MPH__Voting for my Dragtimes link: http://www.dragtimes.com/Volkswagen-GTI-Timeslip-25700.html?r=1