All Things Mk5 > Mk5 General Area

Timing chain replacement question

<< < (4/5) > >>

pudding:
Yep, if 93 is blank, the ECU has no idea where the cam is in relation to crank rotation......and then it's a big portion of limp mode for you, sir. With ketchup.

It's time to start over I'm afraid.  Start at the cambelt end and confirm the timing is correct. The crank and cam sprockets both have to be bob on.  Spin by crank 4 times by hand and if the marks line up again, you can move onto the chain end.

The issue at the chain end is there's an element of chance to it.  Sometimes, after you have located the VVT's alignment pin onto the exhaust cam, the inlet cam will simply fall into place with the right chain tension/roller count between the two sprockets.

But on other times, the inlet cam sprocket is slightly off and needs tweaking a few degrees to get it into the right chain link, but most folk just fit it into what ever chain link goes on, which is usually 1 tooth off.

It depends how well the cams are locked into place.  Most of the locking tools are sh1te, but they have an element of slack in them (including the VW one) to allow said adjustment mentioned above, and VW sell a tool for that as well...... it's handle that slots into the vacuum pump notch on the inlet cam, allowing you tweak the cam a few degrees.

skkane:
Got it done today. 91 sits at 28kw, no more diesel noise, only the hfpf tap tap can be heard (guessing that's the hpfp anyway). Seems to pull harder also but weather out here was pretty crap with 0C and bad rain, no traction what so ever. Gonna have it dyno'd again next week and see how much she does.  :drinking:

Thanks for all the tips!

skkane:
42 horses that bad timing ate :party:

pudding:
 :happy2:

You got there in the end!  Timing makes a massive difference to the power as all that lovely boost is basically leaking away through poorly timed valves!

skkane:
Yup, couldn't really test it out as the weather out here is really crap with snow and sludge, no traction anywhere... but it does feel to pull harder and is smoother running in general.

I also had something really weird just happen earlier, first time it happened also. I was pulling away and gave it around half throttle from like 2k revs and the car started "surging", "lurching" badly, the dv kept making that woosh sound over and over (the car has a spacer with some holes in it, guess that's what makes that woosh sound when discharging part of the boost in the air). It felt really violent, nearly crapped my pants.   :signLOL:

On WOT it doesn't do it or if I'm in manual mode and give it steady gas from 3k+ rpm. My first thoughts was that oh how nice, I may need new clutches or a new dsg box but after researching a bit I heard it can be caused by the DV not holding boost. Not sure on what revision it currently has, I will check it out a bit later. Could it be from that Spacer thing? I like the sound it makes (sounds like a rally car when I lift off at 3k rpm doing that whistle type noise) but many people told me to get rid of it as it can cause leaks and make the car run badly. I will try it with it off after I see what Rev DV it has. I heard good things about that GFB DV+ so may give that a go and get rid of the spacer. Would be a cheap fix vs dsg clutch pack and what not, that would suck. Car shifts great though.

And one more thing, sometimes when the car sits for a while and I put it in reverse to get going it will show R in the dash as normal but upon lifting my foot of the brake the car just sits there. It's really random, had it happen like 3 times so far in ~5k KMs. If I give it gas to try to force it to go it tries to but the engine just dies. Could it be the mechatronic or bad clutches? Never does it in D, only in R.

Just had a look. My DV is a revision D. Should I order the G one? Heard D's lose boost or something and are not really good for remapped cars.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page