All Things Mk5 > Mk5 General Area
Timing chain replacement question
pudding:
Yeah I'd get rid of that spacer. Sounds like it's one of those vent to atmosphere + recirculate specials. I would just put a brand new standard Revision G DV back on. There shouldn't be any chuffing noises at all, especially on part throttle.
It could be remapped. Best way to check is with VCDS and see what the flash count is, which is under "Advanced ID". It should be zero if it's standard.
I'm no DSG expert but it does sound like a lazy solenoid to me. Same thing happens on slush box autos and generally a good service and a solenoid and seal kit is needed to get things ship shape again, but not sure what the process is on DSGs as I think the mechatronic pack is only sold as one big unit.
I keep hearing that about Revision Ds but I never saw that personally on my old ED30. If anything it seemed to pull better with a Rev D!
skkane:
BTW, forgot to ask From those 3 pics I posted on the 1st page, how do you reckon my cam lobe looks?
I didn't know when I had it done that it can "wear out" and don't really trust it. Guy who fixed my chain issue said he changed the cam follower as it looked like 10k kms but it only had like 2k on it. I'm getting paranoid that my inlet cam is fkd but can't really tell from those photos I took and not really keen to take that cover apart to have another look.
I'll be checking this "new" cam follower soon and see what the wear is like, i've done like 2k kms since the chain was adjusted properly. I'll try to look thru the opening with it out to check the lobe but I will only see 1 side out of 3.
Getting bad fuel cuts and limp mode in the mid range. Changed LPFP and that HPFP sensor (I already had the latest revision so more money thrown out the window for nothing). The HPFP is stock and I'm either guessing that could be the culprit or if the cam follower is really worn out I might need a new inlet cam. Getting the P310B / P0087 stuff after it does the fuel cut / limp. Car was pulling fine everywhere when the timing was off and it was only making 260hp... now with 308hp it seems dangerous as fk, if you try to overtake and it does it you can get your ass wasted, so I'm mainly cruising like an old lady keeping it below 2500 rpm. It sort of runs good for the first 15-20 mins and can go WOT but as soon as things heating up I always get cuts past 3000 RPM.
Anyway to tell which cylinder head part no I have without getting the top cover open? Is there a code anywhere to be seen? I have no idea if it has a BYD head with BYD camshafts or the CDL head with CDL cams... no idea wtf the prev owner did but he said the cylinder head was "rebuilt" or "swapped". To what only God knows and he's been telling one lie after another and I can't trust anything coming out of his mouth.
Found some better pics of the lobe and uploaded them here in high res -> https://imgur.com/a/8UYdkvT needs right click open in tab :) Looks okish to me I guess?
Also forgot to ask you, did you switch to the roller cam follower kit? How was it?
skkane:
Well. Checked the cam follower, it looks like new, almost 2000 kms on it. Cam lobe looks ok also, felt it with my fingernail and i couldn't sense any scratches, HPFP piston looked alright also... So guess it's the HPFP after all not keeping up with the stage2 requirements of the map and cutting out like a :evilgrin:
It was easy enough taking it out, minus the bottom screw which connects the fuel pipe but I had a massive fail when putting it back on. Guess I didn't tighter the bottom screw enough and ended up with Niagara Falls :signLOL: :signLOL: :signLOL: I am still laughing like an idiot, lmfao.
Waiting for mechanic friend to come save my ass :grin:
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