All Things Mk5 > Mk5 General Area

Weird rattle! Passenger side. -6.0°KW Camshaft Block 93

<< < (4/5) > >>

OllieVRS:
Just wanted to throw in a little side-by-side comparison that solidifies the plastic piece mystery, the notch on the bottom matches the broken off piece exactly. Any ideas why this would have spontaneously broken off in this place in particular? I don't think the chain had ever been changed, so I doubt it's from a botched repair job.

ROH ECHT:
Looking at it, I can only think it has to do with the direction of force applied to that portion of the pad, albeit minimal force, and the mismatch of angles here;


There's been a noticeable number of pads breaking there in the exact spot.
Then the other additional factors one might think of: brittleness of pad material__time and heat cycles__any stress applied during the assembly of the unit...etc.

G-olf:
looking at doing this job myself so reading the thread with interest.

Did you also replace the cambelt?
What make was the locking tool that was not up to the job?
Did you replace the 3 oil rings on the centre of the cover?

Thank you

OllieVRS:

--- Quote from: G-olf on June 28, 2023, 08:01:05 pm ---looking at doing this job myself so reading the thread with interest.

Did you also replace the cambelt?
What make was the locking tool that was not up to the job?
Did you replace the 3 oil rings on the centre of the cover?

Thank you

--- End quote ---

Hi G-olf,

This a pretty tough job, just fair warning. It's very easy to mess it up (as I did with the cam bolt). So only go ahead if you are comfortable with taking those risks, and are confident in your experience level. And you can hear you timing chain is rattling and/or is due based on a VCDS scan of Block 091 and 093.

That being said, I'll answer your questions:

I replaced the cambelt 2 years ago, it has no relation to the cam chain job as it's on the opposite side of the engine. So there's no benefit to doing it at the same time. Cambelt interval is 4 years/60k miles iirc.


The locking tool was a cheapo Chinese one of Amazon UK, I'm sure it will come up under different names as many retailers will brand it as their own. Here's what it looks like:



You can buy official ones from VW, T10252 (the locking tool) and T10020 (timing bar). Just the locking tool was 113 euro from VW, I didn't even bother getting a quote after that for the bar because I'm a stingy b*stard. In hindsight it would've made the job a lot easier.

Also for the VW polydrive bit, T40080, I'd recommend an OEM one as they're only 15 from VW. I bought a Draper one off Amazon, was pretty loose in the cam bolt, that may have contributed to me stripping the bolt. Avoid.


As for the oil control rings, mine were intact so I didn't replace them. I've never had any problems with a rough idle or misfires, but if you do you should replace them. It's a 'while you're in there' kinda job, but I wasn't bothered.


Top tip: If you don't want to disconnect the small coolant pipe that runs over the top of the cam chain housing, remove the VVT sensor from the cam chain housing for more wiggle room, which isn't mentioned in the cam chain guide. It's the thing with the plastic connector on top, held in with two T25s. And even with it out the cam chain cover will still probably be a tight removal, so careful when you're taking the cover off you don't break the end of the previously mentioned coolant pipes connector, which is what I did the first time I took it off. And be gentle putting the cam chain cover back on, so you don't break the control rings.

Good luck!

G-olf:
Thanks for your help  :happy2:

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page