All Things Mk5 > Mk5 General Area
Weird rattle! Passenger side. -6.0°KW Camshaft Block 93
ROH ECHT:
--- Quote from: G-olf on June 28, 2023, 08:33:34 pm ---Thanks
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Here's one of many diy vids. He does both the belt and chain, so you can skip to about midway for the chain. As said, it can be difficult when it comes to the cam adjuster bolt on the exhaust cam. A good number have stripped them and then needed to drill the bolt in order to use an extractor to remove the bolt.
OllieVRS:
--- Quote from: ROH ECHT on June 30, 2023, 02:56:49 pm ---
--- Quote from: G-olf on June 28, 2023, 08:33:34 pm ---Thanks
--- End quote ---
Here's one of many diy vids. He does both the belt and chain, so you can skip to about midway for the chain. As said, it can be difficult when it comes to the cam adjuster bolt on the exhaust cam. A good number have stripped them and then needed to drill the bolt in order to use an extractor to remove the bolt.
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Yep this combined with the cam chain guide on this forum is what I used when doing mine. That YouTube channel also has a video of him removing a stripped/rounded cam chain bolt, where he first drills it then bashes in a T60. I tried recreating his trick but I couldn't get the T60 bashed in "4-5mm" like he suggests, only 2mm. So of course the bit just slipped out :doh:
Good video though, the way he shows the installation of the new chain is very easy to follow.
Keep in mind, in his video he's removed that top coolant line that runs over the cam chain housing, so he's got an easier job. I don't think he mentions it in the video.
pudding:
13 hours, wow!
Mate, I drilled out 4 f'cked locking wheel bolts on my Bimmer in 1 hour :grin:
How I hear you ask? Cheap cobalt drill bits from Machine Mart :laugh: Honestly, like a hot knife through butter.
Anyway, glad you got there and yes, your post KW results are fine and dandy :drinking:
I hate to keep harping on about it, but the reason the plastic guide fell to pieces is due to extended oil services and the worn chain slapping about, hammering on it. These engines need 5K changes, max. 3K if you can afford it and/or can be arsed. Plastic and rubber parts drenched in fuel saturated oil just degrades super fast and become mega brittle. You will also want to replace the primary oil separator PCV tube as they snap like dry reeds if you just look at them the wrong way.
I could post a video where the chief engineer on the Nissan GTR project also recommends 3K oil changes, but I won't as it's boring :grin:
Anyway, happy days, you did it and you did it without f'cking up the timing :happy2: :grin:
Now that you have addressed the common things, and well done on the piston oil jets by the way, you can keep on top of the maintenance and these things won't happen again :happy2:
OllieVRS:
--- Quote from: Pudding on June 30, 2023, 09:04:53 pm ---13 hours, wow!
Mate, I drilled out 4 f'cked locking wheel bolts on my Bimmer in 1 hour :grin:
How I hear you ask? Cheap cobalt drill bits from Machine Mart :laugh: Honestly, like a hot knife through butter.
Anyway, glad you got there and yes, your post KW results are fine and dandy :drinking:
I hate to keep harping on about it, but the reason the plastic guide fell to pieces is due to extended oil services and the worn chain slapping about, hammering on it. These engines need 5K changes, max. 3K if you can afford it and/or can be arsed. Plastic and rubber parts drenched in fuel saturated oil just degrades super fast and become mega brittle. You will also want to replace the primary oil separator PCV tube as they snap like dry reeds if you just look at them the wrong way.
I could post a video where the chief engineer on the Nissan GTR project also recommends 3K oil changes, but I won't as it's boring :grin:
Anyway, happy days, you did it and you did it without f'cking up the timing :happy2: :grin:
Now that you have addressed the common things, and well done on the piston oil jets by the way, you can keep on top of the maintenance and these things won't happen again :happy2:
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Great to hear from you as always Pudding. You really make me think I was drilling wrong since it took that long, but who knows, maybe VW cam bolts are made of a much tougher material than Bimmer wheel bolts :grin:
I used 3 'professional grade' Bosch Straight Shank 12mm bits and all three of them went blunt very quickly, probably 3mm of drilling done between them combined. Used a generic Stanley Hss Crownpoint 12mm bit and it was an absolute weapon, getting 5mm in alone without dulling. Weirdly the same situation as yours, cheap works best.
Yep, been doing 3k mile or less (forced oil changes when the sump has to be dropped, haha) oil changes since I bought her, 12k miles in now. Because of the oil pressure shenanigans with this car I've probably at least 10 oil changes.
Which PCV tube are you talking about? I've already been thinking of replacing the short one that runs to the top of the intake manifold from the PCV as it looks like it's weeping oil.
Currently as it stands, every single possible item on this engine has been serviced. It can literally only fail now if the engine bearings spontaneously disintegrate. :laugh:
pudding:
Given how easy the VVT bolt rounds out, I reckon it's the same swiss cheese grade steel as BMW wheel bolts :grin:
Not sure what material the Bosch professionals are but Cobalt or Carbide drills are what you need for drilling steel :happy2:
If I'd used those brass coloured £20 for a set of 10 drills from B&Q, I'd have been there for hours and probably got through half a dozen bits, but 1 cobalt bit drilled out 4 bolts and it was still sharp at the end of the ordeal, can't grumble at that. These are what I used, but they were £40 when I bought them years ago.... inflation is a killer - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht384-25pce-cobalt-steel-drill-bit-se/
It's the one that comes off the front PCV and disappears down under the intake manifold. It joins onto the oil filter housing. A bit of a swine to get at but when I removed mine to inspect it, it fell to pieces in my hand and was almost completely blocked with baked carbon! Well worth replacing even just for preventative maintenance.
it's getting there! Props to your perserverence and regular updates :happy2:
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