Author Topic: Geometry calibration, what is it and why?  (Read 26998 times)

Offline Lollylauren

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Re: Geometry calibration, what is it and why?
« Reply #30 on: October 09, 2013, 08:26:52 PM »
Nice bit of light reading  :rolleye:

Offline Donx22

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Re: Geometry calibration, what is it and why?
« Reply #31 on: December 11, 2013, 05:01:13 PM »
I will be performing a full alighnment after centering the subframe next week once I get a  free second at work as at the moment there is nearly a 30 minute split betweek left and right catser and its doing my head in!

I had planned to do a full guide once I have taken some pictures to make it easier to explain and try relate this as to what you feel on the road/track if anyone would like me to?

Offline edd30

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Re: Geometry calibration, what is it and why?
« Reply #32 on: November 18, 2014, 11:08:43 AM »
Donx did you get your alignment sorted in the end ?
What settings did you end up with ?

Offline JENKO

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Re: Geometry calibration, what is it and why?
« Reply #33 on: July 30, 2015, 01:03:09 PM »
Hi Red Robin, you seem to be the goto jedi for alignment queries, I am running eibach prokit and fsd on my mk5 gti so will be slightly lower than stock - are you running lowered springs as I was after the settings for a decent alignment - can you help out?

Don't know if this info will help, but here goes:

If you are having a laser alignment on say a Hunter rig, one of the presets is called: "Volkswagen : Golf V 2004-09 : Sport Suspension GTI (G08/1JE)".

Ranges are:


Camber: -1º14' - -0º14'
Caster: 7º17' - 8º17'
Toe: 0º00' - 0º10'

Offline the bruce

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Re: Geometry calibration, what is it and why?
« Reply #34 on: August 26, 2015, 11:35:01 PM »
No need for "special" alignment settings. There's even no "magic numbers".
Just get stock settings. It's that simple. Take care they correct the (due to
lowering) increased rear camber back to -1°30' or -1°45'. Stock toe is fine
for street (both front and rear about +0°10' = 10 minutes). That's about it.
"You get what you pay for."

Offline BlackR32

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Re: Geometry calibration, what is it and why?
« Reply #35 on: October 10, 2018, 07:14:59 PM »
Can any share the R32 geo settings? Will get mine checked when I change the tyres.


Offline colesey

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Re: Geometry calibration, what is it and why?
« Reply #36 on: October 11, 2018, 02:47:23 PM »
The geo people should have a database of stock settings however you might find the following website useful for making any adjustments from the standard settings to tune the handling for individual preferences

Offline Pudding

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Re: Geometry calibration, what is it and why?
« Reply #37 on: October 12, 2018, 11:36:29 AM »
Without trawling through my War & Peace sized stack of paperwork, I remember the rear being in the -1.30 region for camber, and tiny amounts of +toe.

The front is more tricky.  Stock camber is -0.50 to -0.60 and zero toe, but because of the subframe shonkiness (small bolt, big hole) you will often see MK5s showing -0.55 on one side, and -1.25 on the other.   Not a major issue as you can't really feel that discrepancy on the road, but for OCD folk, it's nice to see a perfect match on each axle.

I recommend a 'start from scratch' and 'do it once' approach to get it all perfectly even.  To do this, you will need:

TyrolSport Deadset or equivalent (not the VAG 'spacer washer' temporary fix).
SuperPro adjustable ball joints.
Someone who knows what they are doing on a Hunter or VAG Biessbarth alignment rig.

Step 1:

Hook up VCDS and log into the Steering controller module, and go to the angle block.  Confirm 0 degrees reflects a perfectly straight steering wheel visually.  If not, someone has moved the wheel around a notch or more, which is very WRONG with angle sensing PAS modules as it can bugger up the ESP/TC behaviour.

Step 2:

Fit the Deadset kit.  An utter, utter ball ache that no balls have ever suffered before, but well worth it as it physically aligns and locks the subframe dead straight.  It also relieves your ears of the annoying clicking/clacking/crunching noises during slow, heavy steering angle manoeuvres.

Step 3:

Fit the SuperPro BJs.

Step 4:

Take the car do a Hunter or Biessbarth equipped alignment shop.  Dealers use the latter.

Step 5:

Have them set the steering wheel alignment to 0 on the diagnostics screen, hold the wheel still with a clamp and THEN adjust the ball joints and toe until it's all equal.   I suggest setting the camber to -1.3

So many cheaper places adjust the hardware and then tweak the wheel round a few splines.  This is not what you want.

After doing that, you will be stunned at the difference, and also how consistent it feels corner after corner, month after month, year after year  :happy2:

« Last Edit: October 12, 2018, 11:40:15 AM by Pudding »
Black Edition 30 with manually selected cogs, a beefier clutch, some extra boost and them Whiteline thingies, otherwise standard.


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Geometry calibration what is it and why
« Reply #38 on: April 21, 2019, 12:44:43 PM »
I am thinking on putting splitrims on i have plenty of those. Small and wide

Handy to fix your flat in the field.   
What kind of thread they used factory off on the tires  all terrain  or did they use whatever was at hand

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