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Optimum Size Wheel/Tyre for performance/handling etc?...
J5BWS:
Just as the title says really, I was wondering if anyone could advise on the best setup for performance rather than bling please?...
Hurdy:
--- Quote from: J5BWS on July 21, 2009, 12:07:44 am ---Just as the title says really, I was wondering if anyone could advise on the best setup for performance rather than bling please?...
--- End quote ---
If you want it to be performance based then I'd say some lightweight 7.5" or 8" by 17" alloys (lighter than 18's) with some good road tyres.
By road tyres I mean something like Yokohama A048's or Toyo R888's. You should be able to get slightly wider than normal tyres on the 8" alloys, say 235 section tyres. These tyres are brilliant in the dry, decent in the damp, but not so good in the wet/cold!!
If you really want the ultimate set-up for wheel and tyre then You will be looking at altering the camber set-up of the car along with rolling/widening the arches to get an even bigger tyre in there.
255 section rubber will fit at a squeeze with some 8.5"x 17" forged alloys would be the ultimate set-up and is the widest I've seen on a track focussed car. :smiley:
J5BWS:
Thanks Hurdy that's really useful information!
What differences could be felt when going from 17" upto 18 or even 19", is it noticeable?
Hurdy:
--- Quote from: J5BWS on July 21, 2009, 08:37:29 am ---Thanks Hurdy that's really useful information!
What differences could be felt when going from 17" upto 18 or even 19", is it noticeable?
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The difference between a lightweight 17" wheel with grippy tyres and a 19" bling wheel is amazing.
You will be able to get an alloy at 17" weighing 7kg (OZ Alleggerita for example)
a typical aftermarket 19" bling alloy can weigh 14kg (Helios)
The tyres weigh about 0.5kg extra in the 17" size, so you have 6.5kg extra at each wheel = 26kg on the unsprung rotational weight.
To get the equivalent effect of this as deadweight in the car you need to multiply by 5, so......
26kg x 5 = 130kg
This affects accelleration, decelleration, fuel consumption, handling and ride quality.
Extra weight on the unsprung part of the car cripples the ability of the suspension to react as fast as it should and so a choppy, harsh ride is the result...compared to a lighter set-up.
I'm currently on 18" Team Dynamics Pro race 1.2 alloys that weigh 9kg a corner and I can easily tell the difference from the 13kg 19" BBS CH's I had on before. The CH's were a lovely wheel and one of the best 19" wheels for a Golf, but they didn't do much for the outright performance, so I sold them on to someone who would appreciate them more. :smiley:
tony_danza:
It's the rotating mass really, both affected by the further weight is from centre and the overall weight.
The barrel of an 18 or 19inch wheel is further from centre, so it has a greater effect once moving. Acceleration, deceleration & steering response all being changed to a relative degree - put a tennis ball on a 2foot piece of string and swing it around, then do it on a 4foot piece, it'll feel heavier and take longer to get going & slow down. Make sense?
The mass of the wheel in unsprung weight terms affects the suspension too, as it has to work harder to control movement. A tennis ball on a piece of elastic will bounce around happily, a heavier cricket ball on the same piece will top and bottom out causing "crashing".
The general consensus is you don't want anything bigger than an 18" for fast road/track, a 17" being best because of the reasons above and they'll fit over most BBKs.
A lightweight 18" may be of preference though due to looks, room for larger brakes (such as an RS4 kit for example) and the ability to run a 40 instead of a 45 = less tyre roll.
Hope that helps?
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