MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: irish_ram on September 30, 2015, 05:20:02 pm
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So I have been having an issue where the connection to my N205 Valve was damaged on just the plastic which brought the EML light on. I reset the connection and done the Basic Setting and light goes off and everything feels fine.
So today my wife has just rang as she is driving the car and it is now juddering/vibrating in the engine bay. She says it seem to drive and accelerate fine etc but the engine is juddering and making a loud noise as you can see in the video hopefully.
Will scan with VCDS when she gets home but wondering what this maybe as I am thinking it is not connected to just a dodgy connection on the N205 Valve
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http://vid399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/Super_Ram/Judder.mp4
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Just investigating issues but this is what scanned below
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Part No SW: 1K0 907 115 L HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0030
Revision: 5BH16--- Serial number: VWZ7Z0F8211388
Coding: 040300031C070060
Shop #: WSC 00717 210 83406
VCID: 2F6DF537BEE897663D9-807A
4 Faults Found:
000010 - Can't Decode, CODE File Not Loaded!
P000A - 008 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115370 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 06:57:50
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2180 /min
Load: 20.0 %
Speed: 31.0 km/h
Temperature: 49.0°C
Temperature: 6.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.351 V
000768 - Can't Decode, CODE File Not Loaded!
P0300 - 001 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115658 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 16:39:43
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3758 /min
Load: 78.8 %
Speed: 73.0 km/h
Temperature: 82.0°C
Temperature: 39.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.478 V
000770 - Can't Decode, CODE File Not Loaded!
P0302 - 001 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115658 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 16:39:43
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3758 /min
Load: 78.8 %
Speed: 73.0 km/h
Temperature: 82.0°C
Temperature: 39.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.478 V
000772 - Can't Decode, CODE File Not Loaded!
P0304 - 002 -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115692 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 17:37:59
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2437 /min
Load: 32.9 %
Speed: 34.0 km/h
Temperature: 81.0°C
Temperature: 21.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.351 V
Readiness: 0000 0100
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So the new error states the below
16688/P0304/000772 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
Possible Causes
Ignition system
Fuel injectors
Fuel pressure
Running out of fuel
EVAP canister purge valve
Evaporative emission system
Low compression
Base engine problems
Controle Module damaged
Special Notes
This feature search for engine misfire in a specific cylinder. Most of the time the cause for a misfire is a lack of combustion in a cylinder due to absence of spark, poor fuel metering, or poor compression.
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16686/P0302/000770 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
16688/P0304/000772 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
16684/P0300/000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
000010 - P000A - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON - Seems to be similar to the previous error I got when found the dodgy N205 Connection as in Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake): Slow Response
So the top 3 are all new errors so as states seems to be pointing at misfires. Would this cause the engine to vibrate as it is. And is there any way of me testing this as it does seem similar to an issue I had on my old TSI where they swapped the cylinders around to see if fault follows?
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I'd change the N205 first maybe it's causing the other problems.
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I'd change the N205 first maybe it's causing the other problems.
That was my thought but even though I am no expert I am surprised I could reset and clear the N205 error with the Basic Settings and it drove fine.
Plus would that really cause the Engine to all of a sudden start physically shuddering and cause misfire errors.
Searching it says may be the MAF sensor or coilpacks but don't really know where to start
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I'd change the N205 first maybe it's causing the other problems.
+1
Then if that fails it's likely to be coil packs. Does it run fine until up to temp?
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So I need to test drive as happened when the wife was driving home today.
She says it started fine but was vibrating straight away but all that time accelerated fine and went up and down the auto DSG gear okay
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Test drive down to the dealers and pick up an n205 valve :happy2:
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Test drive down to the dealers and pick up an n205 valve :happy2:
Going to test drive it now but cost of an N205 is expensive plus I have got full years warranty cover so hesitant on forking out myself and not getting it back haha
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Flagging up random stuff now I think as a suggestion said unplug the MAF Sensor and test, did and no difference.
Plugged MAF sensor back in and now reporting
000256 - Can't Decode, CODE File Not Loaded!
P0100 - 004 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115702 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 71.0°C
Temperature: 38.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.192 V
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So started the engine and in P it judders a hell of a lot. Less when in D Auto mode and even less when in Manual mode
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Okay so done the basic settings on the Camshaft error. Scanned the car and EML gone and no error code, Engine reports ok.
Start the car and EML light still gone but car still juddering.
In more detail it seems in
P and N it is juddering the worst
In R slightly less Judder
In D Auto slightly less again
But in D Manual and S there is hardly any judder yo can notice
If put it straight back to N or P the Judder goes bad again
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My thoughts are you've got two problems:-
The N205 fault will give strange faults and the engine noise but not the juddering - I would be looking else where for the juddering in gear like coil packs - plugs or wiring to the coil packs.
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My thoughts are you've got two problems:-
The N205 fault will give strange faults and the engine noise but not the juddering - I would be looking else where for the juddering in gear like coil packs - plugs or wiring to the coil packs.
Thanks so I just drove it round the block and in manual and the judder is only slightly there but when accelerating there is no power as goes up to about the 20 mark on the RPM before applying any power. Then EML light back on and flashing again
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And new scan reveals errors
Cylinder 2 Misfire
Random Cylinder Misfire
Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
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Not sure if any use but when you start in park it judders badly but then when you press the throttle and keep it steady at 2000rpm the juddering stops all together
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Not sure if any use but when you start in park it judders badly but then when you press the throttle and keep it steady at 2000rpm the juddering stops all together
The above is typical of a plug off - check cylinder 2 for bad electrical connection if ok swap the coil pack and if that doesn't identify it change the plug to another cylinder.
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Not sure if any use but when you start in park it judders badly but then when you press the throttle and keep it steady at 2000rpm the juddering stops all together
The above is typical of a plug off - check cylinder 2 for bad electrical connection if ok swap the coil pack and if that doesn't identify it change the plug to another cylinder.
Thanks will try this tomorrow.
However engine wise I am a noobie.
How would I check and Identify cylinder 2 to check connection and then how do I swap the coilpacks
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Found a guide so seems simple. I am presuming by cylinder it just mean where the coils and spark plug are.
It says to disconnect the battery negative terminal. Is this necessary and if I do this will it reset anything that I will need to activate when connecting again
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Found a guide so seems simple. I am presuming by cylinder it just mean where the coils and spark plug are.
It says to disconnect the battery negative terminal. Is this necessary and if I do this will it reset anything that I will need to activate when connecting again
This guide is comprehensive https://changegears.wordpress.com/maintenance-information/diy-spark-plug-change/
I wouldn't bother disconnecting the battery as it will require various items reset!
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Right so couldn't wait until the morning so did a diag test.
So I scanned the car again with coils in original 1-2-3-4 and got the misfire random and cylinder 2 misfire
Then swap coils so it was 2-1-3-4 and scanned and cylinder faults gone but 2 other faults as below
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Part No SW: 1K0 907 115 L HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0030
Revision: 5BH16--- Serial number: VWZ7Z0F8211388
Coding: 040300031C070060
Shop #: WSC 00717 210 83406
VCID: 2F6DF537BEE897663D9-807A
2 Faults Found:
012691 - Can't Decode, CODE File Not Loaded!
P3193 - 002 -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115706 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 21:08:34
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 65.0°C
Temperature: 36.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.446 V
001602 - Can't Decode, CODE File Not Loaded!
P0642 - 002 -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115706 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 21:08:34
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 65.0°C
Temperature: 36.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.446 V
Swapped coils around again to 1-3-2-4 and scan had same 2 faults only
On both occasions tried a basic setting which it advised but faults still there
Also started the Engine and EML was gone but the same judder was there and all the same symptoms and stopped juddering when keeping revs at around 2000.
So eventually swapped back to original 1-2-3-4 and still just the 2 faults and all the same symptoms but EML off
I suspect if I had of drove the EML would have eventually come back on.
This is confusing me more as could mean there is no cylinder issue but something else wong with these other 2 faults or could be throwing up a red herring. I was hoping to see the misfire change to wherever I put coil 2 or stay on coil 2 but to disappear was strange
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Think it may be a trip to the garage tomorrow anyway but would have liked to have gone with some idea.
I do have the third party warranty that covers the majority of mechanical engine failures so may book it into the stealers if all will be hopefully paid for apart from the diags as they are never usually covered :confused:
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So to make matters worse the car is due a Service and the likely hood from the Warranty people is they will not cover the cost unless Service has been carried out.
So my options are go with the Warranty as they said they can book me in For Service and Repair if need as according to them from what I told them it could be the Service fixes it. Not sure how likely this is. They can do a Service for £179(apparently to VW standards) and then if still a fault because of the age of my car if they cover the diags and repair I will have to contribute between 10-20%
Other option is I get the Service done somewhere else cheaper and if does not fix the repair I fork out for any diag work done myself and then hand it over to the Warranty to again do diags and repair if covered and I pay the 10-20%
Third option is and I have been here before so even though little amounts is to try and fix myself by replacing coils etc. The upside of this is i end up spending say 30-40 quid and fix the issue or the more likely downside is I end up spending a lot and still have to take it in for repair. Also would eventually need to Service it anyway.
Advice please and does anyone know what a VW Service would likely cost?
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First of all, fix your clone VCDS!!
Secondly, stop relying on fault codes and start looking at live data... Get on the misifre counter, check the camshaft adjustment and see if the camshaft adjuster is doing its job etc etc. You have one of the best diagnostic tools for VAG cars and you're using it as a £10 OBD code reader.
Go through the measuring blocks one by one if needed, google anything youre unsure of and make sure things are reading as they should. Camshaft adjuster and position are block 93 i think (its in the 90's... maybe 96?). It tells you the current position and what the ECi is requesting, and both of these should be the same! If they're not, you have issues
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First of all, fix your clone VCDS!!
Secondly, stop relying on fault codes and start looking at live data... Get on the misifre counter, check the camshaft adjustment and see if the camshaft adjuster is doing its job etc etc. You have one of the best diagnostic tools for VAG cars and you're using it as a £10 OBD code reader.
Go through the measuring blocks one by one if needed, google anything youre unsure of and make sure things are reading as they should. Camshaft adjuster and position are block 93 i think (its in the 90's... maybe 96?). It tells you the current position and what the ECi is requesting, and both of these should be the same! If they're not, you have issues
Well in the current situation I am deifnately not in a position to fork out for the full VCDS even though I would love to :wink:
I am using Rosstech VCDS with a third party cable so I know that potentially will not always work but my understanding is will give enough info so not a OBD Code reader but not sure if makes a difference
With my lack of experience it is unlikely I would be able to repair anyway but anything I can do to diagnose would be good. I have already swapped the coils around which seems to have got rid of the misfire errors although I was expecting the misfire to change to different cylinders rather than disappear
Your info sounds good but I would need a guide on how to check measuring blocks etc. Once I found a guide for the coil swaps I am handy enough to be able to do it. So what would I need to check and how on measuring blocks
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I said fix, not buy new. The OBD codes are not being loaded. A re-install might help.
Measuring block data is fairly self-explanatory, each bit of data is labelled and usually tells you what it should be roughly seeing. Check the camshaft block (it’s in the 90's and clearly labelled), see what it reads at idle, and chuck a screenshot up, or a data log or even a short video of it
Swapping coils around won't fix anything, so I’m betting the misfire is not spark related.
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I said fix, not buy new. The OBD codes are not being loaded. A re-install might help.
Measuring block data is fairly self-explanatory, each bit of data is labelled and usually tells you what it should be roughly seeing. Check the camshaft block (it’s in the 90's and clearly labelled), see what it reads at idle, and chuck a screenshot up, or a data log or even a short video of it
Swapping coils around won't fix anything, so I’m betting the misfire is not spark related.
No probs, yeah I have tried re-install before. Might be the cable but just weird it will scan the car but not load the codes and lets me into to change mod setting screen but doesn't give the usual info of what is what on the byte and when change stuff it doesnt activate correctly even though it says it has. I am wondering if maybe the car is the issue
Just doing the measuring blocks now and will post up
Thanks :happy2:
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It's the label files that are not being loaded, not a car issue but an issue with your copy of VCDS
Will keep an eye out later as i can't view any media on the works PC
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It's the label files that are not being loaded, not a car issue but an issue with your copy of VCDS
Will keep an eye out later as i can't view any media on the works PC
Cheers Ill check more on the software side.
Screenshots attached of cylinder misfire and also the blocks that ran in the 90's
Explanation if you anyone cant see the screenshots
On 1st run where cylinder 2 was popping an error
Group 014 after a minute on idle started counting misfires in box 3
Group 015 after starting counting the misfires in box 2 for cylinder 2, others were fine
I swapped the cylinder 1 and 2 over and same results above but the misfires moved to cylinder 1 for Group 015
So for Group 90's it only found and ran 91,93 and 94 and results below
Group 91
Box 1 - Idle speed
Box 2 - 5.9%
Box 3 - 28.0*KW
Box 4 - 27.5*KW
Group 93
Box 1 - Idle speed
Box 2 - 22.6%
Box 3 - 4.0*KW
Box 4 - Blank
Group 94
Box 1 - Idle speed
Box 2 - 27.5*KW
Box 3 - TXT 000 235
Box 4 - Blank
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fpp78%2FSuper_Ram%2FResults.png&hash=ba0ca1bc7a588f4f2f377bdb21e4e2740aae8391)
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Not sure if an issue but I realized I have ran this on basic Setting-04 and not the Measuring Blocks-08 option :confused:
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So sorted the software out as seems the code file was not installing properly so dropped one in and now works :happy2:
Re-ran the measuring blocks correctly and got the below results
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fpp78%2FSuper_Ram%2FCapture1.png&hash=8ef1ca5d7b97b2882b24b633f3108332254c7ba7)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fpp78%2FSuper_Ram%2FCapture.png&hash=0a1f4077fbbb95c9fd155a49edd5f0555cd5d345)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fpp78%2FSuper_Ram%2FCapture_3.png&hash=faa3fc4c567fbda7ef20d9ed3914cb7f696a2b9a)
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Plus new scan with codes. Strange thing is it still reports Misfire on 2 but has also reported 1 after I swapped 2 to 1 which tallies more with the measuring blocks misfires
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 907 115 L HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0030
Revision: 5BH16--- Serial number: VWZ7Z0F8211388
Coding: 040300031C070060
Shop #: WSC 00717 210 83406
VCID: 2F6DF537BEE897663D9-807A
6 Faults Found:
012691 - Intake Manifold Runner Control
P3193 - 002 - Open Stop outside of Valid Range - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115706 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 21:08:34
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 65.0°C
Temperature: 36.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.446 V
001602 - Sensor Reference Voltage A: Circuit
P0642 - 002 - Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115706 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 21:08:34
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 65.0°C
Temperature: 36.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.446 V
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115706 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 11:09:31
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 763 /min
Load: 23.5 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 47.0°C
Temperature: 15.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.097 V
000770 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 001 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115706 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 11:09:35
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 809 /min
Load: 22.7 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 47.0°C
Temperature: 15.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.097 V
000017 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake)
P0011 - 004 - Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced) - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115706 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 11:23:03
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1177 /min
Load: 17.2 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 72.0°C
Temperature: 21.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.224 V
000769 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 001 - Misfire Detected
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115706 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 11:39:50
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 770 /min
Load: 18.8 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 76.0°C
Temperature: 28.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.970 V
Readiness: 0110 0101
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So removed all Coils and checked for damage but couldn't see any.
Stuck the suspected faulty Cylinder 2 one in Cylinder 4 location
Ran VCDS scan and now says in terms of misfire errors I have a random misfire and cylinder 4 so definitely this fault is following the coil. Also ran MB 014,015,016 and misfire's now showing on cylinder 4. The EML is initially off and then pops up flashing and then the misfires usually happen. Still not sure why the random misfire is on there or is this just standard.
Still get the below, could this be a false alarm and popping up due to the misfires or if not more tests or things could I check in relation to this apart from the 091,093 and 094 test I have ran which I dont really know what they mean or if they are ok figures
000017 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake)
P0011 - 004 - Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115706 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 15:20:15
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2361 /min
Load: 11.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 46.0°C
Temperature: 23.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1020.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.351 V
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So Warranty Company are messing about as the nearest Garage they could find was over an hour away and with a flashing EML light my thinking is that is not a good idea to drive it there.
Concentrating on the Misfire and if the Misfire is following this suspected faulty Coil whatever position I slot it in how likely is it that at the very least that is definitely at fault?
The question after that is there could be other issues but likely wont know until the coil is replaced?
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Check with your local dealer as coil packs have previously been getting changed under warranty if it hasn't already been done worth a phone call!
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Check with your local dealer as coil packs have previously been getting changed under warranty if it hasn't already been done worth a phone call!
Nice one,
I did see an article on it. Is there anyway of me telling they have been change and covered under a recall?
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Check with your local dealer as coil packs have previously been getting changed under warranty if it hasn't already been done worth a phone call!
Nice one,
I did see an article on it. Is there anyway of me telling they have been change and covered under a recall?
This is what I'm lead to believe you follow:-
If you have a 2.0FSI engine and your coil part number is:
06F 905 115 F
07K 905 715 D/E
06H 905 115
06D 905 115 K
06E 905 115 D/E
06H 905 115
Then your car is OK and does not need anything. If it does NOT have one of those coils, then you need the newer coil.
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Check with your local dealer as coil packs have previously been getting changed under warranty if it hasn't already been done worth a phone call!
Nice one,
I did see an article on it. Is there anyway of me telling they have been change and covered under a recall?
This is what I'm lead to believe you follow:-
If you have a 2.0FSI engine and your coil part number is:
06F 905 115 F
07K 905 715 D/E
06H 905 115
06D 905 115 K
06E 905 115 D/E
06H 905 115
Then your car is OK and does not need anything. If it does NOT have one of those coils, then you need the newer coil.
Okay so looking at mine
3 of them are 07K 905 715C and 1 is 07K 905 715F
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Think I found the same page as you and the 07K 905 715F refers to the 2.5l engine as okay as you see below so would this be an issue that I have the wrong coil?
If you have the 2.5 engine and your coil part number is:
06F 905 115 F
07K 905 715 D/E
06H 905 115
06D 905 115 K
06E 905 115 D/E
07K 905 715 F - THIS ONE!!!!!!
Then your car is OK and does not need anything. If it does NOT have one of those coils, then you need the newer coil.
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I've seen an article on this site about the issue complete with part numbers but can't find it!
Like I said call the dealer they'll tell you off you reg or Vin
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I've seen an article on this site about the issue complete with part numbers but can't find it!
Like I said call the dealer they'll tell you off you reg or Vin
I am hoping for some good news as seems at least 3 of my ignition coils are on the recall list. Wonder why 1 is a new version but for 2.5l engine or not sure that matters
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Bit of advice here chaps as not sure what to do.
My current plan is to buy a Coil from Eurocarparts near me and test. If fixes then all good and at some point next week book it in for a VW Service and Coil recall if I qualify. If coil does not fix then drive to the garage authorized by the warranty for a Service(£180) and dig of the fault and go from their depending on what it finds.
However checking on VW I can get an Interim Service for £140 at my local VW dealership but until Monday. So I am going to ring them tomorrow about Coils recall and if they say it needs one and cannot fit me in until next week I will fork out for 1 coil to see if fixes my current issue and take the £30 hit and then if fixes I can still drop into VW next week for Service and coil replacement. If coil doesn't fix then drop into VW for service and then onto an authorised dealer for the warranty company
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http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/owners/recalls
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Only now have i been able to look at the logs - sorry mate!
Look at the log of block 91, and compare the specified camshaft position vs the actual...... at idle it is ok, but once driving it is massivley out of spec and will be causing a lot of your issues! it's also failing the diagnostic/basic setting from the look of the last log.
A coilpack will not solve all of your issues mate, looks like the N205 is prime suspect and will need replacing:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16395/P0011/000017
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Only now have i been able to look at the logs - sorry mate!
Look at the log of block 91, and compare the specified camshaft position vs the actual...... at idle it is ok, but once driving it is massivley out of spec and will be causing a lot of your issues! it's also failing the diagnostic/basic setting from the look of the last log.
A coilpack will not solve all of your issues mate, looks like the N205 is prime suspect and will need replacing:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16395/P0011/000017
Thanks mate.
Yeah I suspect I have a Misfire too as the Cylinder fault follows coil 2 wherever I place it so this will need doing anyway.
But yeah the N205 issue which happened last week which did not seem to cause any issues apart from the EML coming on but once I did the basic settings the EML disappeared and the car ran for a bit before the error came back.
I am looking at getting it replaced now anyway but I was hoping the coil fix would stop the engine from jerking around and then I could hand over to the garage to sort the N20(as exspensive) under Warranty.
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http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/owners/recalls
This confuses me then as on there it says my car is not due for any recall however the 3 Coils I have are not in the list of ok ones.
Plus I was under the impression this wasn't a recall as such so would it show up on that link you gave me.
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Only now have i been able to look at the logs - sorry mate!
Look at the log of block 91, and compare the specified camshaft position vs the actual...... at idle it is ok, but once driving it is massivley out of spec and will be causing a lot of your issues! it's also failing the diagnostic/basic setting from the look of the last log.
A coilpack will not solve all of your issues mate, looks like the N205 is prime suspect and will need replacing:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16395/P0011/000017
Thanks mate.
Yeah I suspect I have a Misfire too as the Cylinder fault follows coil 2 wherever I place it so this will need doing anyway.
But yeah the N205 issue which happened last week which did not seem to cause any issues apart from the EML coming on but once I did the basic settings the EML disappeared and the car ran for a bit before the error came back.
I am looking at getting it replaced now anyway but I was hoping the coil fix would stop the engine from jerking around and then I could hand over to the garage to sort the N20(as exspensive) under Warranty.
Why spend money on some parts if you have a warranty? Personally i would ring the company, tell them the garage is too far and the car is undriveable, and if they insist then tell them the car will need to be recovered. Check the small print and T&Cs of your warranty very carefully as most are rubbish and there are so many clauses as to what is not covered, or what they will and won't pay for.
If the warranty is from where you bought the car from (a dealership of some kind) then go back to them about it, car is not fit for purpose, they either sort it or take the car back for full purchase price etc.
Do your research and prepare for a battle!
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Only now have i been able to look at the logs - sorry mate!
Look at the log of block 91, and compare the specified camshaft position vs the actual...... at idle it is ok, but once driving it is massivley out of spec and will be causing a lot of your issues! it's also failing the diagnostic/basic setting from the look of the last log.
A coilpack will not solve all of your issues mate, looks like the N205 is prime suspect and will need replacing:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16395/P0011/000017
Thanks mate.
Yeah I suspect I have a Misfire too as the Cylinder fault follows coil 2 wherever I place it so this will need doing anyway.
But yeah the N205 issue which happened last week which did not seem to cause any issues apart from the EML coming on but once I did the basic settings the EML disappeared and the car ran for a bit before the error came back.
I am looking at getting it replaced now anyway but I was hoping the coil fix would stop the engine from jerking around and then I could hand over to the garage to sort the N20(as exspensive) under Warranty.
Why spend money on some parts if you have a warranty? Personally i would ring the company, tell them the garage is too far and the car is undriveable, and if they insist then tell them the car will need to be recovered. Check the small print and T&Cs of your warranty very carefully as most are rubbish and there are so many clauses as to what is not covered, or what they will and won't pay for.
If the warranty is from where you bought the car from (a dealership of some kind) then go back to them about it, car is not fit for purpose, they either sort it or take the car back for full purchase price etc.
Do your research and prepare for a battle!
I do agree there mate but have had that initial battle and they advise I would have to pay for recovery and if the fault turns out to be covered under warranty I can claim back up to £120 for recovery costs.
Also apart from the distance they are advising I need a Service as it is due before the Warranty will intervene and the Warranty company are charging me £179 which is booked into Halford's, where as I can get a Service off VW for £139 but not until Monday so hesitant to pay more to not even get a Manufacturer Service
Might sound stupid but yeah I am thinking I will take the hit on the Coil and if solves the jerking I can then drop it into VW on Moday for full Service and hopefully Coil replacement and go from there
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So first bit of good news is I rang VW and my Coils are part of a recall so need to get booked into my Local VW to sort.
Just checking but I presume I do not need to meet any specific Criteria like Full Service done or within a time period to get them replaced. All I need is to have the actual recall coils in the car which it seems 3 of them are so they may only swap 3 and not the 4
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So booked in at my local VW dealership for an Interim Service and also a Coil Pack replacement so I am thinking I will get this done as Service is only £139 as opposed to the Warranty company charging me £179 just to get one a Halfords.
Then from there likely I will have to take it into the Warranty company Garage to sort the N205 Valve or whatever other fault it may be if the Service and Coils do not sort it.
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So the latest update which seems to have got better maybe.
Ended up buying a Coil from Euro for £22
Scanned car beforehand and had the misfires and juddery engine, swapped coil over with suspected faulty and hey presto no judder at all and misfire errors gone. However EML light was still on.
So got the car home and clear all engine codes and did a full scan and initially it found 1 fault as below
001602 - Sensor Reference Voltage A: Circuit
P0642 - 002 - Low
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115786 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 14:00:41
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 84.0°C
Temperature: 48.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.827 V
So I for some reason performed basic settings on block 142 with ignition on but engine off and it gave me the below
.500v - upper Voltage
.860v - lower Voltage
30 - Adaption Status
Error - Adaption Condition(with all the other faults this was saying OK before)
Then ran block 200 with engine on and idle, and pressed brake and throttle together and got Error there too
So re-scanned he car and as well as the above error it shows
012690 - Intake Manifold Runner Control
P3192 - 008 - Basic Setting Aborted - Mech. Stop Closed
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 115786 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 14:00:41
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 84.0°C
Temperature: 48.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.827 V
My plan is it is booked into VW for Full Service and Coil replacement on Monday and then if anymore errors into the Warranty garage
Should I be worried the basic settings failed and I got the 2nd error and what could I check for the 1st if I have not already done so?
Thanks
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Tried googling but finding it difficult.
Anyone know where and how I check the below
Check Wiring from/to the following Components and Components themselves:
Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31)
Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Position Sensor (G336)
Low Pressure Fuel Sensor (G410)
Check TPL 2016420 (RoW)
Check Engine Control Module Software Version, if necessary perform Update.
Replace Intake Manifold Runner (V157) with updated part.
Check TSB 01-08-12 or 2018402
Check Engine Control Module Software Version, if necessary perform Update.
Replace Intake Manifold Runner (V157) with updated part.
Additional information may be found by searching RVU 24M2 / O3 (Exp. date November 30, 2011) or calling the VW dealer and checking the VIN.
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Anyone got a How to Guide on checking the above things around the Manifold and location of the sensors.
Could it also be maybe a fuse as in worth checking nothing is blown in the fuse box
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Right so after all the problems it seems to be finally sorted now.
Car had a Service at VW and Coil pack swap which I knew would sort the Misfire but also the car felt a lot better.
However it still had the EML light on which VW noted on the free health check but did not do any further diagnostics.
Got home and first went to Engine code, there were 3 faults from before, cleared them and EML went straight off. Re-scanned the car and no faults. Been driving the car for a day and no EML on still.
So think the N205 Valve will need to be replaced eventually but the damage to it is more cosmetic on the connection hopefully.
The Health Check did find my CV boot which I was looking to replace myself is now fully split and the wheel bearings on one of the wheels is noisy and need fixing so a few more repairs :confused:
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irish_ram sorry to bring up an old thread, did you ever get the Intake camshaft fault code sorted?
Mine come up with the same last night & cut out on me this morning :fighting:
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irish_ram sorry to bring up an old thread, did you ever get the Intake camshaft fault code sorted?
Mine come up with the same last night & cut out on me this morning :fighting:
Hi mate,
Yes it was the N80 Valve in the end, the connection was damaged so kept coming loose, bought a working 2nd hand one and fixed the problem
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irish_ram sorry to bring up an old thread, did you ever get the Intake camshaft fault code sorted?
Mine come up with the same last night & cut out on me this morning :fighting:
Hi mate,
Yes it was the N80 Valve in the end, the connection was damaged so kept coming loose, bought a working 2nd hand one and fixed the problem
Sorry meant N205 Valve which I replaced
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irish_ram sorry to bring up an old thread, did you ever get the Intake camshaft fault code sorted?
Mine come up with the same last night & cut out on me this morning :fighting:
Hi mate,
Yes it was the N80 Valve in the end, the connection was damaged so kept coming loose, bought a working 2nd hand one and fixed the problem
Sorry meant N205 Valve which I replaced
Heads coming off tonight so hopefully everything will be ok & it is just the valve :sad1: Did it cause your engine to 'tap' louder than usual?
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irish_ram sorry to bring up an old thread, did you ever get the Intake camshaft fault code sorted?
Mine come up with the same last night & cut out on me this morning :fighting:
Hi mate,
Yes it was the N80 Valve in the end, the connection was damaged so kept coming loose, bought a working 2nd hand one and fixed the problem
Sorry meant N205 Valve which I replaced
Heads coming off tonight so hopefully everything will be ok & it is just the valve :sad1: Did it cause your engine to 'tap' louder than usual?
No apart from the Engine Light on I did not feel any symptoms at all