MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: ljc19630 on August 30, 2022, 05:13:15 pm
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Hey folks,
Been a while since i posted as had personal issues that I've had to contend and deal with! However Happy to say these are now behind me, hence only looking FORWARDS now!!!!
Ok, so the STG3 Venom450 Hybrid ED30 with 160k miles is just a hoot.....I love it, and it makes me smile every time i drive it. R-Tech did a fab job :congrats:
Over the past few months I've encountered the common Subframe Clunk/Pop/Creak when taking slow turns, entering driveways, coming to a stop, and starting from a standstill. My pal who owns Surrey Tuning recommended the 034MOTORSPORT STAINLESS STEEL SUBFRAME LOCKING COLLAR UPGRADE KIT - DEADSET - PQ35 kit. Mad price, but got this trade and had it fitted a few weeks back. As the subframe was moved about, i needed to get a front wheel alignment done. Went to Kwik Fit in Horsham (know them and good guys) and they aligned on the hunter 4wd set up. Drove out and noticed the steering wheel was not straight when driving and car pulled to n/s. Took it back, re aligned, same issue..........3rd time visiting, and one of the guys i know asked me to look at the subframe. (Pics attached) as it seems that the subframe, post 034 kit install hadn't lined up with the initial OEM subframe position, and Kwik Fit said that they could only align to how the subframe was currently sitting. SOoooooooooo. I tell my pal, who questions this, but I ask for the car to be checked. Today, i go back, he does whatever it was he done, and says its ok. I go back to Kwik Fit (4th time).........subframe is the same as before, the align as they had done 3 times before, and guess what.......steering wheel still of centre and car pulls to n/s. I've also attached the print out post 4th re alignment. Anyone have any idea why this is happening? @Pudding (https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=10733)........come to my rescue!!!!!!! :jumpmove:
(https://i.postimg.cc/xCQjcDbP/d-Gu-KVg09-S-i-ENX-OLYr0l-A.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nV0VcWVv/Foaef-Hl6-Qd-Cxb-SNBJXTyd-Q.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gjYvyT1V/6-DB7-D1-FA-BE8-F-49-A3-87-C9-24-F9-AF116-B7-C.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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steering wheel needs to be centred before tracking is done and NOT move whilst being set up :happy2:
Never seen the words kwik fit and good guys in the same sentence before My local is proper sh*t They even have a girl working there :popcornsoda:
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There is another thread that covers general discussion on these that I posted in (if you can find it).
My understanding is that the factory uses the play in the subframe to align during build (tightening down once set, obviously). The shims take that play away and can fix you in a position that is different to how it left the factory. Solution at that point is to use something like adjustable front arms/balljoints to get adjustability back.
My car had a creak when I got it. I replaced shocks and top mounts and it mostly went away. Small creak every now and then.
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Hi mate, glad you're back and got the car running well :happy2:
Yeah the steering wheel needs to be centred before any alignment work takes place. Or to be more precise, VAG-COM is needed to ensure the steering angle shows 0 degrees, which is more accurate than eye balling it. You can move the steering wheel around a few notches on the spline, which is what most people do, but it's better for the ESP performance to have all it setup around 0 degrees.
Once that's done, the tracking can be adjusted. Don't worry if you end up with uneven camber, most of them left the factory like that! The marks on the floor are just where the subframe used to sit, but is now centralised so nothing to worry about.
I don't really understand how they couldn't get it tracking straight after 4 attempts, and on a Hunter jig as well :grin: Some training required there I think!
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Hi mate, glad you're back and got the car running well :happy2:
Yeah the steering wheel needs to be centred before any alignment work takes place. Or to be more precise, VAG-COM is needed to ensure the steering angle shows 0 degrees, which is more accurate than eye balling it. You can move the steering wheel around a few notches on the spline, which is what most people do, but it's better for the ESP performance to have all it setup around 0 degrees.
Once that's done, the tracking can be adjusted. Don't worry if you end up with uneven camber, most of them left the factory like that! The marks on the floor are just where the subframe used to sit, but is now centralised so nothing to worry about.
I don't really understand how they couldn't get it tracking straight after 4 attempts, and on a Hunter jig as well :grin: Some training required there I think!
Hey Kev, thanks mate. Yeah the car is great. Considering i've had a load of mad cars (1100hp GTR) this is by far the most fun!!!!
I get your point re Kwik Fit - The did confirm that they had the steering wheel centered (Not using VCDS) BUT said that the subframe was not aligned correctly as if you look at the pics i posted you can see the "shiny" area where presumably the subframe was positioned before the deadset bolts were installed? My thoughts are that surely the bolts & additional collets would naturally pull the subframe back in to its original position?
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Sounds like either their machine isn’t calibrated properly or they have set it up wrong for the readings/adjustment. If the subframe has moved slightly then had the alignment done it shouldn’t make any difference to the outcome (unless it is wildly bent!)
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I was in a similar situation, went to ats for 4 wheel alignment, went back because the wheel was off to the left, re adjusted, still off to the left so I went to someone else and guess what........ still off to the left.
I gave up and made very minor adjustments to both sides myself, a quarter of a turn in on one side and a quarter of a turn out on the other side (track rod ends) and now it's perfect, wheels straight, no pulling to the left or right. I really don't understand how they can't get it right with all this special equipment, all I needed was a couple of spanners.
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Thanks to all that have replied.
I'm currently sat at Gatwick Tyres, as been here before for alignment as they too have the Hunter Alignment kit. Car is just going on ramp now, so I'm hoping that they can sort it. I'm still concerned that the subframe doesn't appear to be lined up, as per the pics i posted, but according to my pal that fitted the 034 Deadset bolts, its fine. Steering Was spot on before i went for this kit, so something ain't right :confused:
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The shiny areas are just where the subframe used to sit. The dead set kits realign the subframe holes to be dead centre (hence their name) which will naturally repositions the subframe. When these cars left the factory, the subframe could be a few mm over to one side compared to another one. They literally threw them up to the floor and worried about the alignment afterwards.
Subframe position really doesn't matter though, in terms of alignment. At the end of the day, all they can adjust at the front is toe anyway, which is pretty rudimentary for any alignment shop, or ought to be at least :happy2:
1100hp GTR! :surprised: Are you sure the Golf is more fun??! :grin:
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Interested to hear how you got on ?
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The shiny areas are just where the subframe used to sit. The dead set kits realign the subframe holes to be dead centre (hence their name) which will naturally repositions the subframe. When these cars left the factory, the subframe could be a few mm over to one side compared to another one. They literally threw them up to the floor and worried about the alignment afterwards.
Subframe position really doesn't matter though, in terms of alignment. At the end of the day, all they can adjust at the front is toe anyway, which is pretty rudimentary for any alignment shop, or ought to be at least :happy2:
1100hp GTR! :surprised: Are you sure the Golf is more fun??! :grin:
Hey Kev,
That makes so much sense now, and i understand what you've explained - Thanks mate!
So Jordan at Gatwick Tyres (fellow petrol head) adjusted the alignment. He did say that it looks like Kwik Fit may be using an older version of s/w on their hunter, which could account for the issues i've had. However he tweaked the settings and asked me to drive it over the weekend and see how it is. Whilst its a LOT better, the steering wheel is still slightly off centre and still pulls to the n/s, so going back tomorrow for hopefully the final check and alignment. I've added a pic of the existing set up.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fR5ZhJXV/6k-YRALm-FSxu-OLLyr-YN6xw.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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The shiny areas are just where the subframe used to sit. The dead set kits realign the subframe holes to be dead centre (hence their name) which will naturally repositions the subframe. When these cars left the factory, the subframe could be a few mm over to one side compared to another one. They literally threw them up to the floor and worried about the alignment afterwards.
Subframe position really doesn't matter though, in terms of alignment. At the end of the day, all they can adjust at the front is toe anyway, which is pretty rudimentary for any alignment shop, or ought to be at least :happy2:
1100hp GTR! :surprised: Are you sure the Golf is more fun??! :grin:
Hey Kev,
That makes so much sense now, and i understand what you've explained - Thanks mate!
So Jordan at Gatwick Tyres (fellow petrol head) adjusted the alignment. He did say that it looks like Kwik Fit may be using an older version of s/w on their hunter, which could account for the issues i've had. However he tweaked the settings and asked me to drive it over the weekend and see how it is. Whilst its a LOT better, the steering wheel is still slightly off centre and still pulls to the n/s, so going back tomorrow for hopefully the final check and alignment. I've added a pic of the existing set up.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fR5ZhJXV/6k-YRALm-FSxu-OLLyr-YN6xw.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
That looks good. Remember the only thing that he can adjust directly at the front now the dead set is installed is toe.
Have you have a look at your tyres? Same brand and even wear particularly at the front? I’m sure you know this already but a car the left of the road will pull to the left due to the crown of the road. If you can find a clear road try driving in the middle to see if that helps.
Thanks for keeping us up to date. My car drives wonderfully straight and trying to decide whether to fit the dead set kit I have in the garage!
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The shiny areas are just where the subframe used to sit. The dead set kits realign the subframe holes to be dead centre (hence their name) which will naturally repositions the subframe. When these cars left the factory, the subframe could be a few mm over to one side compared to another one. They literally threw them up to the floor and worried about the alignment afterwards.
Subframe position really doesn't matter though, in terms of alignment. At the end of the day, all they can adjust at the front is toe anyway, which is pretty rudimentary for any alignment shop, or ought to be at least :happy2:
1100hp GTR! :surprised: Are you sure the Golf is more fun??! :grin:
Hey Kev,
That makes so much sense now, and i understand what you've explained - Thanks mate!
So Jordan at Gatwick Tyres (fellow petrol head) adjusted the alignment. He did say that it looks like Kwik Fit may be using an older version of s/w on their hunter, which could account for the issues i've had. However he tweaked the settings and asked me to drive it over the weekend and see how it is. Whilst its a LOT better, the steering wheel is still slightly off centre and still pulls to the n/s, so going back tomorrow for hopefully the final check and alignment. I've added a pic of the existing set up.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fR5ZhJXV/6k-YRALm-FSxu-OLLyr-YN6xw.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
That looks good. Remember the only thing that he can adjust directly at the front now the dead set is installed is toe.
Have you have a look at your tyres? Same brand and even wear particularly at the front? I’m sure you know this already but a car the left of the road will pull to the left due to the crown of the road. If you can find a clear road try driving in the middle to see if that helps.
Thanks for keeping us up to date. My car drives wonderfully straight and trying to decide whether to fit the dead set kit I have in the garage!
Thanks my friend,
It confuses the crap out of me, Toe, Caster, Camber!!!! I need to have a read up on how this all equates!!!! Tyres are (Goodyear F1 Eagle SS - on recommendation of @Pudding (https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=10733)) wearing evenly. I'm due to do an oil & filter change at 160k (do this every 5k) and will swap front/rears around to get even wear, as they'd have covered just over 5k. I have a road near me thats long and straight, and actually did the test you mention yesterday. It's a tad better, but still pulls to the left. When driving normally (in the road) If i let go of the steering wheel, its pulling quite significantly to the n/s (on a scale of 10 for aggressiveness i'd sat 6.5) I spoke to Jordan at Gatwick Tyres, and he said we can go out together in the car to test before and after he's re adjusted the alignment. I'll keep you all posted on this and really appreciate your help with this chaps!
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Learn something new every day:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7q2grQILEVo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7q2grQILEVo)
So your car should pull slightly to the left. Online people say half a degree (what you have) is the point that it starts to show.
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Learn something new every day:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7q2grQILEVo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7q2grQILEVo)
So your car should pull slightly to the left. Online people say half a degree (what you have) is the point that it starts to show.
Hey bud,
It was fine before the dead set bolts went in. Had new discs and pads fitted around 3k miles ago too.
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Just to out rule a few variables.....
Tyre pressures the same across each axle?
A brake caliper binding?
Has the recent hot spell gouged lorry ruts into your local roads?
Mine always shows dead on on alignment rigs but the only time it ever pulls dead straight, hand off the steering wheel, is on a dead flat road......which are few and far between! There is always a varying amount of left or right tug, depending on surface wear and built-in drainage camber etc etc, but obviously keeping the car straight shouldn't be a battle with the steering wheel......just a slight correction here and there. If you're forcibly having to centre the wheel, then yeah, that's not right :grin:
I think I'll call upon me ol' mate Occam and his Razor on this one....... and the razor being the alignment STILL isn't right! I.e. the simplest answer is usually the right one :grin:
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Just to out rule a few variables.....
Tyre pressures the same across each axle?
A brake caliper binding?
Has the recent hot spell gouged lorry ruts into your local roads?
Mine always shows dead on on alignment rigs but the only time it ever pulls dead straight, hand off the steering wheel, is on a dead flat road......which are few and far between! There is always a varying amount of left or right tug, depending on surface wear and built-in drainage camber etc etc, but obviously keeping the car straight shouldn't be a battle with the steering wheel......just a slight correction here and there. If you're forcibly having to centre the wheel, then yeah, that's not right :grin:
I think I'll call upon me ol' mate Occam and his Razor on this one....... and the razor being the alignment STILL isn't right! I.e. the simplest answer is usually the right one :grin:
You've got me thinking. I occasionally (no set pattern) get a weird drone coming from the n/s front wheel. Replaced the wheel baring a while back, new discs and pads. It still does makes the drone noise, but as i said not at any given time or pattern. Thing is the steering wheel still isnt straright which confuses me. I'll get the caliper checked out as had a very slight inclining something isn't right. Tarox 6 Pots that were on the car when I bought it, hence I may just get a set of Mk7 R calipers as I can then add larger discs as these only take OEM 312mm discs
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Just to out rule a few variables.....
Tyre pressures the same across each axle?
A brake caliper binding?
Has the recent hot spell gouged lorry ruts into your local roads?
Mine always shows dead on on alignment rigs but the only time it ever pulls dead straight, hand off the steering wheel, is on a dead flat road......which are few and far between! There is always a varying amount of left or right tug, depending on surface wear and built-in drainage camber etc etc, but obviously keeping the car straight shouldn't be a battle with the steering wheel......just a slight correction here and there. If you're forcibly having to centre the wheel, then yeah, that's not right :grin:
I think I'll call upon me ol' mate Occam and his Razor on this one....... and the razor being the alignment STILL isn't right! I.e. the simplest answer is usually the right one :grin:
You've got me thinking. I occasionally (no set pattern) get a weird drone coming from the n/s front wheel. Replaced the wheel baring a while back, new discs and pads. It still does makes the drone noise, but as i said not at any given time or pattern. Thing is the steering wheel still isnt straright which confuses me. I'll get the caliper checked out as had a very slight inclining something isn't right. Tarox 6 Pots that were on the car when I bought it, hence I may just get a set of Mk7 R calipers as I can then add larger discs as these only take OEM 312mm discs
And you've got me thinking about your thinking :grin:
I get the same grumbling/drone noise too on particular sections of road....which I just put down to the F1 SuperSports being 'sporty' :grin: I also get a bit of brake squeak, only when turning slowly onto my drive after work, which is usually a sign of the brake disc moving out of whack in relation to the caliper carrier, which a worn bearing can cause. And I also get a bit of steering wheel kick over rough roads, almost like the road wheels are twitching left/right independently of the steering rack.
Hmmm.....maybe we've both found the cause of some long standing issues! The only problem is, you can't physically check a front bearing for wear on a FWD car until it's unloaded from the driveshaft.
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Just to out rule a few variables.....
Tyre pressures the same across each axle?
A brake caliper binding?
Has the recent hot spell gouged lorry ruts into your local roads?
Mine always shows dead on on alignment rigs but the only time it ever pulls dead straight, hand off the steering wheel, is on a dead flat road......which are few and far between! There is always a varying amount of left or right tug, depending on surface wear and built-in drainage camber etc etc, but obviously keeping the car straight shouldn't be a battle with the steering wheel......just a slight correction here and there. If you're forcibly having to centre the wheel, then yeah, that's not right :grin:
I think I'll call upon me ol' mate Occam and his Razor on this one....... and the razor being the alignment STILL isn't right! I.e. the simplest answer is usually the right one :grin:
You've got me thinking. I occasionally (no set pattern) get a weird drone coming from the n/s front wheel. Replaced the wheel baring a while back, new discs and pads. It still does makes the drone noise, but as i said not at any given time or pattern. Thing is the steering wheel still isnt straright which confuses me. I'll get the caliper checked out as had a very slight inclining something isn't right. Tarox 6 Pots that were on the car when I bought it, hence I may just get a set of Mk7 R calipers as I can then add larger discs as these only take OEM 312mm discs
And you've got me thinking about your thinking :grin:
I get the same grumbling/drone noise too on particular sections of road....which I just put down to the F1 SuperSports being 'sporty' :grin: I also get a bit of brake squeak, only when turning slowly onto my drive after work, which is usually a sign of the brake disc moving out of whack in relation to the caliper carrier, which a worn bearing can cause. And I also get a bit of steering wheel kick over rough roads, almost like the road wheels are twitching left/right independently of the steering rack.
Hmmm.....maybe we've both found the cause of some long standing issues! The only problem is, you can't physically check a front bearing for wear on a FWD car until it's unloaded from the driveshaft.
Oh lord here we go!!!! Well When I got the car with 150k miles it was fine. I then fitted Passat Ali arms, and the kit came with new standard drop links and Ball joints. Post fitting that lot is when the drone started, to the point that when Niki @ R-Tech was doing the Mapping for the STG3 conversion, he thought it was his dyno as the squeal was so loud. I put it down to a wheel baring, which was changed, and the drone went............for a while, but like a dodgy girlfriend that you just want rid of, the drone has re appeared, but as i said there is no pattern to when it happens. Albeit its nowhere near as bad or loud as it was prior to changing the wheel baring, its happening PLUS i get the brake squeal, but only when almost coming to a stop!!!! WTF is happening here???
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Just to out rule a few variables.....
Tyre pressures the same across each axle?
A brake caliper binding?
Has the recent hot spell gouged lorry ruts into your local roads?
Mine always shows dead on on alignment rigs but the only time it ever pulls dead straight, hand off the steering wheel, is on a dead flat road......which are few and far between! There is always a varying amount of left or right tug, depending on surface wear and built-in drainage camber etc etc, but obviously keeping the car straight shouldn't be a battle with the steering wheel......just a slight correction here and there. If you're forcibly having to centre the wheel, then yeah, that's not right :grin:
I think I'll call upon me ol' mate Occam and his Razor on this one....... and the razor being the alignment STILL isn't right! I.e. the simplest answer is usually the right one :grin:
You've got me thinking. I occasionally (no set pattern) get a weird drone coming from the n/s front wheel. Replaced the wheel baring a while back, new discs and pads. It still does makes the drone noise, but as i said not at any given time or pattern. Thing is the steering wheel still isnt straright which confuses me. I'll get the caliper checked out as had a very slight inclining something isn't right. Tarox 6 Pots that were on the car when I bought it, hence I may just get a set of Mk7 R calipers as I can then add larger discs as these only take OEM 312mm discs
And you've got me thinking about your thinking :grin:
I get the same grumbling/drone noise too on particular sections of road....which I just put down to the F1 SuperSports being 'sporty' :grin: I also get a bit of brake squeak, only when turning slowly onto my drive after work, which is usually a sign of the brake disc moving out of whack in relation to the caliper carrier, which a worn bearing can cause. And I also get a bit of steering wheel kick over rough roads, almost like the road wheels are twitching left/right independently of the steering rack.
Hmmm.....maybe we've both found the cause of some long standing issues! The only problem is, you can't physically check a front bearing for wear on a FWD car until it's unloaded from the driveshaft.
Oh lord here we go!!!! Well When I got the car with 150k miles it was fine. I then fitted Passat Ali arms, and the kit came with new standard drop links and Ball joints. Post fitting that lot is when the drone started, to the point that when Niki @ R-Tech was doing the Mapping for the STG3 conversion, he thought it was his dyno as the squeal was so loud. I put it down to a wheel baring, which was changed, and the drone went............for a while, but like a dodgy girlfriend that you just want rid of, the drone has re appeared, but as i said there is no pattern to when it happens. Albeit its nowhere near as bad or loud as it was prior to changing the wheel baring, its happening PLUS i get the brake squeal, but only when almost coming to a stop!!!! WTF is happening here???
Lol, Passat arms (and knuckles) on mine as well :grin: Maybe there are some minor Golf vs Passat bits that are slightly different in some way, but bolt on anyway. Either that or bearing quality took a massive nose dive in the last 5-6 years or so, which is when I last fitted front wheel bearings (genuine).
Yep, same, it's just the last few feet as the car is about to stop the brakes start shrieking, but only with some steering lock :grin: It's got to be wheel bearings. We probably killed them off driving hard with sticky tyres!
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Learn something new every day:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7q2grQILEVo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7q2grQILEVo)
So your car should pull slightly to the left. Online people say half a degree (what you have) is the point that it starts to show.
Hey bud,
It was fine before the dead set bolts went in. Had new discs and pads fitted around 3k miles ago too.
Yes, I suspect the dead set bolts pulled the subframe into a different position to where it was before. The position that the subframe was in before may have given you better geometry.
Originally I thought that locating the subframe better would automatically mean better geo. But the thing is many of these cars benefit from the adjustability (camber is part of that adjustability) that the loose fitting subframe bolts gives you.
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But the loose subframe causes clunking and geo shift, so it's better to lock it in place and deal with the geo corrections afterwards.
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Hey Guys,
Had a long chat with Jordan at Gatwick Tyres. He asked if my pal at surrey tuning had loosen the steering rack when he did the dead set bolt fit. I called and asked him and he said he had. We didn't know this, hence Jordan said that its very likely that the steering needs to be reset using VCDS (bit like when you take off the steering wheel) He said that there was a fag paper of adjustment he could do on the hunter, but for me to reset the steering first and see how that goes. Now the question is................How do i do that using my VCDS?
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You could try an adaptation in the steering module, or pull the battery and let it recalibrate itself.
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You could try an adaptation in the steering module, or pull the battery and let it recalibrate itself.
Ah thanks Kev! I'll pull the battery as easier. Should I ensure that the steering wheel is centred before I disconnect the battery?
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Nah, it calibrates itself as you drive :happy2: The orange steering light should go very quickly after your first left and right turn, or you can just give it lock to lock once or twice after starting it up. I just drive it personally :smiley:
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But the loose subframe causes clunking and geo shift, so it's better to lock it in place and deal with the geo corrections afterwards.
My clunk stopped when I replaced my top mounts! At the moment I will wait until noise returns, steering is affected or I get a test that shows geo is out. Which may not take long… 😆
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Nah, it calibrates itself as you drive :happy2: The orange steering light should go very quickly after your first left and right turn, or you can just give it lock to lock once or twice after starting it up. I just drive it personally :smiley:
Cheers Kev - I'll have a play tomorrow as exhausted due to mad mad work schedule, and now getting royally pisched :drinking: :drinking:
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Getting mangled on a school night?!! :grin: :drinking:
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Getting mangled on a school night?!! :grin: :drinking:
Had to be done, and now paying the price :sick: :sick:
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Another thought - how are the wishbone bushes? Just thinking the static geometry could be absolutely spot-on on the alignment rig when the car isn't moving, but once rolling, bad bushes can allow road wheel movement, which will knock the toe out.
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Another thought - how are the wishbone bushes? Just thinking the static geometry could be absolutely spot-on on the alignment rig when the car isn't moving, but once rolling, bad bushes can allow road wheel movement, which will knock the toe out.
I thought this as well. Just be aware wishbone bushes can occasionally be harder to change than they first appear…
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Another thought - how are the wishbone bushes? Just thinking the static geometry could be absolutely spot-on on the alignment rig when the car isn't moving, but once rolling, bad bushes can allow road wheel movement, which will knock the toe out.
The wishbones were replaced with Passat arms and came with the bushes. Only done 3k max since they were fitted. Incidentally Kev, i got that drone noise again today......but on very gently applying the brake pedal whist moving it went away, hence I am now convinced its the caliper that's the culprit?
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Another thought - how are the wishbone bushes? Just thinking the static geometry could be absolutely spot-on on the alignment rig when the car isn't moving, but once rolling, bad bushes can allow road wheel movement, which will knock the toe out.
The wishbones were replaced with Passat arms and came with the bushes. Only done 3k max since they were fitted. Incidentally Kev, i got that drone noise again today......but on very gently applying the brake pedal whist moving it went away, hence I am now convinced its the caliper that's the culprit?
Mine pulls and tugs all over the shop (especially when accelerating hard) and it has Passat arms with SuperPro console bushes and stock front bushes. It really does feel like either the bushes are loose and sloppy, or the wheel bearings have had it.....but on the alignment rig it's 100% bob on! Feckin car :grin:
I don't think brakes could cause droning noises unless you have drilled or grooved discs and grumbly track pads?
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Another thought - how are the wishbone bushes? Just thinking the static geometry could be absolutely spot-on on the alignment rig when the car isn't moving, but once rolling, bad bushes can allow road wheel movement, which will knock the toe out.
The wishbones were replaced with Passat arms and came with the bushes. Only done 3k max since they were fitted. Incidentally Kev, i got that drone noise again today......but on very gently applying the brake pedal whist moving it went away, hence I am now convinced its the caliper that's the culprit?
Mine pulls and tugs all over the shop (especially when accelerating hard) and it has Passat arms with SuperPro console bushes and stock front bushes. It really does feel like either the bushes are loose and sloppy, or the wheel bearings have had it.....but on the alignment rig it's 100% bob on! Feckin car :grin:
I don't think brakes could cause droning noises unless you have drilled or grooved discs and grumbly track pads?
Well TBH mine with 433HP & 447TQ is a bit of a handful when on the loud pedal, but generally a joy and comfortable too. I have Brembo 312 drilled discs, and opted for the Tarox OEM pads....I've never been happy with the 6 pot Tarox kit - Just never felt right, so likely I'll swap it out for a set of MK7 R calipers amd 340mm discs as had them on the KO4 converted GTi and they were excellent with OEM pads too
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Another thought - how are the wishbone bushes? Just thinking the static geometry could be absolutely spot-on on the alignment rig when the car isn't moving, but once rolling, bad bushes can allow road wheel movement, which will knock the toe out.
The wishbones were replaced with Passat arms and came with the bushes. Only done 3k max since they were fitted. Incidentally Kev, i got that drone noise again today......but on very gently applying the brake pedal whist moving it went away, hence I am now convinced its the caliper that's the culprit?
Mine pulls and tugs all over the shop (especially when accelerating hard) and it has Passat arms with SuperPro console bushes and stock front bushes. It really does feel like either the bushes are loose and sloppy, or the wheel bearings have had it.....but on the alignment rig it's 100% bob on! Feckin car :grin:
I don't think brakes could cause droning noises unless you have drilled or grooved discs and grumbly track pads?
Well TBH mine with 433HP & 447TQ is a bit of a handful when on the loud pedal, but generally a joy and comfortable too. I have Brembo 312 drilled discs, and opted for the Tarox OEM pads....I've never been happy with the 6 pot Tarox kit - Just never felt right, so likely I'll swap it out for a set of MK7 R calipers amd 340mm discs as had them on the KO4 converted GTi and they were excellent with OEM pads too
OK, well my Clubsport S drilled discs did make a noise, but more of a quiet ticking than a drone when pulling up to a stop with medium pedal pressure. I did have drilled Zimmerman discs in the past that kind of droned, but that's because they were f'cked :grin:
Glad you're happy with the power, we just need to get this tracking thing sorted!
I've got some red MQB 340mm calipers with GTI emblem plates, genuine pads and genuine Clubsport S discs if you're interested. I bought them brand new so they haven't changed hands a million times on ebay :grin: They're surplus to requirements as I'll be selling the car at some point this year.