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Author Topic: Gti / Edition 30 headlight washer retrofit (for legal xenons) Guide - Complete  (Read 7711 times)

Offline willni

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Parts Required have been confirmed with two lists (Fab5Freddy's and Mine), I'm going off my own list as below; the cost for the parts and wiring excluding two of bumper mouldings and painting was €39 Euro for the Kufatec wiring, and £296 for the Volkswagen parts as of December 2017 with 10% discount at Volkswagen.

Trying to gather up an accurate list of everything required for a fully working headlight washer retrofit, to allow the retrofit for future xenon headlights.

So far my list consists of the following;

Hardware (main system elements)

both right and left jet pumps -
1K0 807 717 E GRU – Left 
1K0 807 718 E GRU – right
1K5 955 109 A – Left - Cover for the jets
1K5 955 110 A – Right - Cover for the jets

Pressure Cylinder x2
1K5 955 978

washer bottle 5.5 litre -
1K0955453S

adapter for car with stationary heater
1T0 955 665

Pump for vehicles with headlight washers -
3B7 955 681

level sensor -
7M0 919 376

Headlight washer pump
3B7 955 681


Headlight hose
1J0 955 964 F

new kufatec harness -  https://www.kufatec.co.uk/shop/en/headlight-washer-system-harness-vw-audi

Software
VCDs Coding

Hardware (connectors, nuts, screws etc)

m6x25
N 101 602 05

Sealing washer
7M0 919 382

Sealing cap
1K0 955 455

Gasket
443 955 465

Elbow bend
1J0 955 665 A

connector for adapter for cars with stationary heater
1J0 955 665 E

1T0 955 975 distributor piece

Cable tie with socket x 6
3D0 971 838 E

Clip
1J0 955 846 x 8

y-piece
1J0 955 873 D

These numbers were sourced from an American etka (pictured below) can anyone confirm these part numbers as accurate and what parts can be removed and reused from the existing basic system (i've removed some)






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« Last Edit: February 01, 2018, 10:02:05 pm by willni »

Offline lukemk5gti

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Re: Gti/edition 30/ pirelli headlight washer retrofit
« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2017, 10:15:09 am »
Haven't seen a retrofit of this done before...

Good luck!

Offline fab5freddy

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Re: Gti/edition 30/ pirelli headlight washer retrofit
« Reply #2 on: July 13, 2017, 06:38:01 pm »
I retro fitted these a couple of years back, I think I still have the parts list saved, i'll check when I get in from work  :happy2:

Offline skard

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Re: Gti/edition 30/ pirelli headlight washer retrofit
« Reply #3 on: July 13, 2017, 07:13:55 pm »
I did it on my first mk5 so my recollection is a bit vague now, but the list that was on here was pretty much complete. What I would say is just buy the larger reservoir instead of hoping you get a perfect cut on the existing one.
Used to have Edition 30 - number 009 and a GT TDI 140.
Now have an S4 B8 Avant (stage 2)

Offline willni

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Re: Gti/edition 30/ pirelli headlight washer retrofit
« Reply #4 on: July 13, 2017, 07:49:02 pm »
@lukemk5gti @fab5freddy  @skard Thanks for the replies,
It should hopefully be a pretty straight forward retrofit with the parts list at hand, estimating a rough cost of £200 for materials. (missed a complete kit for £150 on ebay saying it was all £200).

Hoping to get this done in about 2 months time, and coding wise should be relatively straight forward with the wiring only getting used every x (5 or 7 usually) amount of times from windscreen wash so should just be a case of getting it wired in and ticking headlight washers in vag-com.

Hopefully this will get people fully running genuine or replica xenons legally.

Offline fab5freddy

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Re: Gti/edition 30/ pirelli headlight washer retrofit
« Reply #5 on: July 14, 2017, 10:30:38 pm »
@willni this is the list i used when doing mine, looks to be the same as yours  :happy2:

Larger water bottle – 1K0 955 453 S
Washer level switch – 7M0 919 376
Rubber washer  - 7M0 919 382
Rubber  washer - 6N0 906 102
Pump – 3B7 955 681
O ring washer for above – N 903 038 01
Washer hose comes in coils of 5 m (you need 3 ish)

Here are all the little bits – depending on how you can route the pipe some of these (one or two ) may be spare
Angled Piece  - 1J0 955 665 A
Distributor – 7L6 955 873
Cable tie with terminal socket – 3D0 971 838 E
Terminal Clip for hose X8 – 1J0 955 846
Connecting part x2 – 1J0 955 665 E
Lift Cylinders (Jets)  x2 - 1K5 955 978
Nozzle Carrier left – 1K6 955 103 – Left
Nozzle Carrier left – 1K6 955 104 – Right
Speed nut x4 – N909 591 01
Panel bolt for above x4 – N103 546 02
Junction – 1T0 955 975
Junction – 1T0 955 665
Gasket – 431 955 465A

Bumper mouldings
1K0 807 717 E GRU – Left 
1K0 807 718 E GRU – right
1K5 955 109 A – Left - Cover for the jets
1K5 955 110 A – Right - Cover for the jets


Offline willni

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Re: Gti/edition 30/ pirelli headlight washer retrofit
« Reply #6 on: December 29, 2017, 02:43:57 pm »
So most of the parts for the retrofit arrived today from @Pirelli_Reece at Listers Volkswagen as can be seen below; just missing two of the bumper mouldings which I forgot to add to my list of parts  :ashamed: , no real problem since they need painted anyway so no rush for them.

All the parts as discussed by myself and Fab5freddy earlier in the thread, as well as I got the use of Vcds from a friend who just got one (didn’t want to keep annoying rossimac) and the wiring harness from kufatec.





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« Last Edit: December 29, 2017, 03:39:41 pm by willni »

Offline willni

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Re: Gti/edition 30/ pirelli headlight washer retrofit
« Reply #7 on: December 29, 2017, 02:58:22 pm »

Offline Octoparrot

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Re: Gti / Edition 30 / Pirelli headlight washer retrofit (for legal xenons)
« Reply #8 on: December 29, 2017, 06:14:54 pm »
I'll be following this with interest because if I was to add xenons, then I'd want to do it properly like this. Keep us updated on how it goes.  :happy2:

Offline Rossimac

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Re: Gti / Edition 30 / Pirelli headlight washer retrofit (for legal xenons)
« Reply #9 on: December 30, 2017, 12:13:51 pm »
Nice one Will!

Following with interest as my bodge job is a bit embarrassing!

Offline willni

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Re: Gti / Edition 30 / Pirelli headlight washer retrofit (for legal xenons)
« Reply #10 on: December 30, 2017, 05:09:42 pm »
Nice one Will!

Following with interest as my bodge job is a bit embarrassing!

As long as it passes Mot would you worry?   :signLOL:

Offline willni

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Re: Gti / Edition 30 / Pirelli headlight washer retrofit (for legal xenons)
« Reply #11 on: December 30, 2017, 05:18:29 pm »
Started into it today after mucking about with one of my power folding mirrors as it decided to break and would wobble, so ordered a new one with accompanying module.

Anyway back to the task in hand, made very good headway, removed the battery box, front bumper and headlights, and fitted most of it up until I realised I was missing the last gasket, and never received it so going to see if it's lying around at Volkswagen with a couple other bits (the other bits aren't important just there for tidiness, but the gasket is the last piece).

So in the meantime I'm going to run the wiring through the firewall and try and figure out where it goes as per the instructions below;

- Place the relay above the control unit for central electric
- Red/ White loom to PIN 8 of the relay socket
- Yellow loom to the control unit for central electric – connector D – PIN 8
- Mount the relais socket again
- Gray – Fuse box
- Brown – Ground
- Violett (Water) – 35-pole connector of the instrument cluster PIN 34

Pictures following shortly

Offline willni

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Guide

Tools Required;
Torx 15, 20, 25, 30.
Sockets variety
Wrench for said torx
Extension bars for the wrench
Panel tools,
watering can/bucket + towel,
Needlenose pliers
boltcutters or other way to cut rubber hose

Optional;
Cleaning supplies
Rust remover
Black Paint
Divided box to keep nuts etc in.

This is pretty much a lego guide with the aid of the ETKA drawing

Steps

1. Firstly you'll want to remove the bumper, headlights, Intake, battery and battery box this is to give you lots of space and visibility for wiring and removal of parts. You'll find many guides and videos for this bumper held on by 3 torx in the wheel arches, and a few underneath that are visible to see if you don't have a black car.

2. I started this from the plumbing end as it seemed easier. Firstly I started undoing the 4 10mm nuts holding the washer reservoir in place two behind the tank, one in front and one up where you fill it.







3. I disconnected the blue pipe running into the pump and the wiring connected to the reservoir and unwrap the connections from the wrapped wiring and piping to the old tank.



4. Maneuverer the neck of the tank (where you fill it) down out of the headlight area, if you have a basin/bucket or towel place below now, and pull out the pump from the tank/reservoir (you could unclip it, but for me it wasn’t visible). Collect your washer fluid as you can reuse this later.

5. You can now build up your new tank out of the car if you choose for me it was easier to, this consists of taking your pump and pump gasket from your old tank and putting it on the right hand empty space of the new, inserting the new (or old) water level switch (7M0 919 382) and sealing washer  (7M0 919 382) into the middle space and your new pump (1K6 955 651), Gasket (431 955 465 A) with your adapter for cars with stationary heater ( 1T0 955 655) this is connected to your connecting piece ( 1J0 955 975)

This picture is before i realised my mistake that pump should go on the left and the old pump on the right.






6. Place in your new 5.5 Litre tank, and do up the nut at the neck of the tank and at the front. You’ll now need your extension tool to do up the two behind the tank as you will no longer be able to move your tools behind it due to the increase in size.



7. I chose to go and remove my existing bumper mouldings at this point to allow me to get a better judgement for the cutting of the hose later on. Be prepared this is going to be the worst trim removal you’ll experience.

I found the best way was to unclip the mouldings at either end first (Left two clips then right two clips) this allows you to remove the middle clips far easier as it becomes a simple push the clips. After the first one the second one does feel easier.



8. Take your Jet carriers with jets ( 1k6 955 103 + 1k6 955 104), Pressure cylinders (1k5 955 978) speed nuts (N 909 591 01) and two connecting pieces ( 1J0 955 655 E).

Place the speed nut bracket onto the bumper with the flat on the flat of the bumper, you can then clip your pressure cylinder into place below onto the bumper (picture shows it better) and then screw it together and your finished result will look like this;



9. I then set about the wiring I removed the glovebox and underneath it just to give myself space as I’ve never put anything through the firewall.



The entrance to the interior in in at the back it’s hard to show on camera.




So you cut off one of the nipples where the wire goes, then attach the loop of the longest wire to the coat hang and thread it through. Then tidy up the engine bay end so it all looks tidy by using the tidies in and around the bay.

You'll then need to take the wiring across to the drivers side, I took out the little cubby drawer to the right of the steering wheel and underneath around the OBD port to make it easier for myself (except for the earth, just place it to a good grounding point). You should be able to get the wire that goes to the relay over but i extended mine anyway (soldered and heat shrank), then be prepared for a lot of swearing as you try to get the pins to go into their holes, Pin 34 of the instrument cluster and the fusebox were the hardest for me and probably took me about 5-10 minutes.



For the instrument cluster pull the plastic on the leather cowl that connects the dash to the steering column, undo two screws (highly recommend a magnetic torx piece here) and then gentle push your clocks out, set them aside slide the connector to the left to free it, then take it out of it's housing with its 4 clips. The front of the connector it's number 36 being bottom right so go into 3 it will be empty, plug it in and cable tie it to the loom.







Now connect the two harnesses with the thick spade going into the back of the relay, and then place the thin pin from the relay into Box D pin 8 of the CECM as shown, you'll need to slide the red pin to inward to unclip the harness and then open up the plug but pull out the purple clip with a screwdriver;



Then place the socket into one of the empty slots above the CECM (facing you when you removed the cubby drawer) and then plug your relay fuse in.




Now split your fusebox there's 3 or 4 clips, find fuse 36 and insert your fuse spade from the relay in and add a 20 amp fuse.



Now you can put the dash back together again as you're finished with the interior.  :congrats:

Now it’s just a matter of creating your plumbing for them pretty self explanatory and fits just like the ETKA diagram, unfortunately I forgot to take pictures when i did mine.

But I did it when the bumper was off the car and worked from far side over, you can use clamps to make sure it’s full waterproofed on the washers but it’s unnecessary for all it gets used.

Then put the bumper back on and now you’ve just coding to do.

In VCDs go into 09 - Central Electrics and then long coding and then i think it’s in byte 4 you find the headlight washer box tick it fit esc and then Do It! And it is coded in.

Scan for faults in central electrics an if you’ve no faults happy days.

If not here’s some troubleshooting;

Check the CECM wire is fully plugged in through unclipping the plug and opening the purple clip and then pushing it in with a small screwdriver.

Check your earthing

Check your fuse box wire is fully inserted by opening the back of the box and pushing the clip out and pushing the purple box down after you’ve take a picture of your fuses and removed all the fuses.

Check your fuse it should be 20 amp

Check your Instrument cluster wire was fully inserted.

Check that the plugs are fully clipped into the pumps (can access via fog light opening when put back together)

Check your two harnesses are connected properly by the spade into the back of the relay.

« Last Edit: January 08, 2018, 11:39:50 am by willni »

Offline Rossimac

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Re: Gti / Edition 30 / Pirelli headlight washer retrofit (for legal xenons)
« Reply #13 on: December 30, 2017, 06:53:02 pm »
Nice one Will!

Following with interest as my bodge job is a bit embarrassing!

As long as it passes Mot would you worry?   :signLOL:

🙈🙈🙈

Offline willni

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Ok made some more movement on the (entirely grey) wiring



Left loom
T33/34 – Pin34 -  violet – Water level Switch - Thin wire with small spade connector, connects to the wiring block behind the instrument cluster at slot 34 bottom right third in.

Circle – Ground - Circle connection

Red and Yellow – Connects to the new pump thick wire - Thick spade connector - F36 in the Fusebox

Right relay - CECM

D8 – solid yellow - thin spade connector - thin wire - plugs into the CECM in block D pin 8

Spade - Pin 8 of Relay Socket Yellow and black (meant to red/white) - connects into the back of the supply relay from kufatec there's one empty slot on the back.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2017, 07:28:55 pm by willni »