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Mk5 General Area / Re: rough idle/misfire without fault code
« Last post by ZoliWorks on July 04, 2025, 05:14:40 pm »Open VCDS and look for misfires. See which cylinders are doing it and how often. Measuring Blocks 14-15-16
Recent Posts
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Mk5 General Area / Re: rough idle/misfire without fault code
« Last post by generalen15 on July 04, 2025, 04:17:50 pm »Sounds like the oil pressure control rings on the cam actuator to me. Does it sound better when the revs are raised up from idle?
the 3 oil rings i change 1.5 years ago same time as the timing chain. the issue is on only idle just 1% gas will make it run perfect, the cam adjustment and phase position are always good when looking at live data. and if it was the vvt it would throw a code fast when i was going 160kmh cruise for 90km, but zero fault codes.
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Mk5 General Area / Re: rough idle/misfire without fault code
« Last post by mjmallia on July 04, 2025, 03:38:48 pm »Sounds like the oil pressure control rings on the cam actuator to me. Does it sound better when the revs are raised up from idle?
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Mk5 General Area / rough idle/misfire without fault code
« Last post by generalen15 on July 04, 2025, 02:39:32 pm »hi, i have got some problem with my golf 5 gti 2008, that started to have issues a week ago, first fault code that came up was P2187 (system too lean at idle,bank 1) and after a swapped spark plugs while i wait for my new pcv part it change to p2279 (intake air system leak) and now with the new pcv that a testing by blowing and sucking it doesnt leak like my old one did, but it still running rough only at idle as soon as i give gas it goes away and today i cruised at 160kmh for 90km without issues. and my injector only ran 5000km since service with good numbers before and after the service on them. anyone have had problem with coils that doesnt work right only at idle and doesnt throw any fault codes?
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Mk5 General Area / Re: Golf 5 Variant: Highline MFD + MFSW + Cruise Control Retrofit Help Needed
« Last post by ZoliWorks on July 03, 2025, 09:00:55 pm »Oh yah, I forgot to mention. The scirocco clocks need specific ABS pumps. If you have an older one or one that's not compatible, you'll need to change that too.
Have a read through this post https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,112537.0.html
Mk5 ABS pumps that work with the scirocco cluster:
1K0 907 379 Q
1K0 907 379 AA
1K0 907 379 AC
Have a read through this post https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,112537.0.html
Mk5 ABS pumps that work with the scirocco cluster:
1K0 907 379 Q
1K0 907 379 AA
1K0 907 379 AC
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Mk5 General Area / Re: What did you and your MKV do today?
« Last post by Marticus on July 03, 2025, 08:57:54 pm »I got them from here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006821485910.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.32b31802RaDno8
Used this post as a guide for cleaning the paddle contact points: https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/dsg-paddle-shifters-working-intermittently-implausible-signal-in-vcds-fix-inside.6915231/.
You have to clean those 3 solder points. It will shift perfectly again after and the vcds error on the paddle will be gone.
Thanks friend, much appreciated!
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Mk5 General Area / Re: What did you and your MKV do today?
« Last post by skkane on July 03, 2025, 08:54:53 pm »I got them from here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006821485910.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.32b31802RaDno8
Used this post as a guide for cleaning the paddle contact points: https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/dsg-paddle-shifters-working-intermittently-implausible-signal-in-vcds-fix-inside.6915231/.
You have to clean those 3 solder points. It will shift perfectly again after and the vcds error on the paddle will be gone. BTW... the lot of work part he mentions is not true, you open the paddle very easily with a sharp tool, like popping out the telescope on a watch bracelet link.
Used this post as a guide for cleaning the paddle contact points: https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/dsg-paddle-shifters-working-intermittently-implausible-signal-in-vcds-fix-inside.6915231/.
You have to clean those 3 solder points. It will shift perfectly again after and the vcds error on the paddle will be gone. BTW... the lot of work part he mentions is not true, you open the paddle very easily with a sharp tool, like popping out the telescope on a watch bracelet link.
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Mk5 General Area / Re: Cold start issues - LPFP, HPFP, Injectors replacement - Results
« Last post by ZoliWorks on July 03, 2025, 08:46:59 pm »I havent touched the vac pump and no ETA when I'll get to it as I was busy fitting S3 brakes front and back and refreshing the turbo with an anti surge core. I've replaced the 3 plastic rings around the VVT adjuster but no difference. I have massive misfires on cyl 3 when idle. It sometimes logs 20, sometimes 80 before it reset. My camshafts look worn out, pitted and rusted so later on this year I'll be replacing the whole head with a CDL head. The cylinders and pistons probably look bad too.
I'll make sure to update this post once I make any progress, but as of right now, due to the hot weather, there are no cold start issues.
As for the pump controller, that's stock. I have a feeling my issues are from the fueling side, but I just cant pinpoint the problem. I feel like the fuel rail or fuel lines fill up with air overnight cause it always makes that bubbling sound when I open the door. But at the same time, if it's cold outside, the cold start issues happen each time I try to start the car, if I dont let it warm up.
I've replaced the lpfp with a continental unit and made absolutely no difference. The aftermarket controller also made no difference.
Current standing:
- New Conti LPFP, stock controller
- New Huco HPFP with VIS internals
- New 200bar rail pressure sensor
- New S3 OE injectors
- New Bosch N80 valve
- New VVT rings
- INA VVT chain, adjuster, controller and tensioner done 30k km ago
- Carbon clean that made no difference whatsoever
- OE stock Vac pump that's leaking oil
- K04 that's quite worn out
I'll make sure to update this post once I make any progress, but as of right now, due to the hot weather, there are no cold start issues.
As for the pump controller, that's stock. I have a feeling my issues are from the fueling side, but I just cant pinpoint the problem. I feel like the fuel rail or fuel lines fill up with air overnight cause it always makes that bubbling sound when I open the door. But at the same time, if it's cold outside, the cold start issues happen each time I try to start the car, if I dont let it warm up.
I've replaced the lpfp with a continental unit and made absolutely no difference. The aftermarket controller also made no difference.
Current standing:
- New Conti LPFP, stock controller
- New Huco HPFP with VIS internals
- New 200bar rail pressure sensor
- New S3 OE injectors
- New Bosch N80 valve
- New VVT rings
- INA VVT chain, adjuster, controller and tensioner done 30k km ago
- Carbon clean that made no difference whatsoever
- OE stock Vac pump that's leaking oil
- K04 that's quite worn out
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Mk5 General Area / Re: What did you and your MKV do today?
« Last post by Marticus on July 03, 2025, 03:30:49 pm »Upshift paddle was unresponsive, cleaned contacts and swapped the stick on extensions with some that replace the original paddle caps. Much nicer IMO.
Looks fantastic! If you don't mind sharing can you let me know where you got the paddles from? Mine are worn and new replacements are unavailable or expensive, if I can do as you did and clean up the connections and replace the paddles it will be a big help!
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Members Rides / Re: Marticus' Red GTI
« Last post by Marticus on July 03, 2025, 03:18:12 pm »Updates updates.
So after loosing oil pressure during a track day some 8 months ago, I have been saving money and deciding how to proceed. I spend a long time with my heart set on buying a CDL block but after looking at a lot of expensive engines with no guarantee, or service history. Or 'rebuilt' engines that seem to have been assembled from random used parts and cheap new parts. Iv'e given up on that idea.
So I got a loan, and started spending money.
Got the car out of the garage for the first time in months to make space for this:
Used BUL engine from an A4, high mileage but the seller did compression and oil pressure checks and all good (according to them)
Plan is to spruce this up a bit, and throw it in while I rebuild the old engine for powaaa!
Workshop tools purchased, there's an engine stand and lift still in boxes.
And alongside the engine there are a few other goodies to go in:
New upgraded radiator & silicon hoses
S3 intercooler
New AC radiator on the way
Strut brace
Downpipe with 200cel sports cat
Plan is to check and replace any bushings, maybe fit alloy (Passat) wishbones, and uprated engine mounts/ inserts etc.
Lastly I'm tired of looking at the stock rear end:
This just arrived from ingo noak in Germany.
It's going to be a busy couple of months!
So after loosing oil pressure during a track day some 8 months ago, I have been saving money and deciding how to proceed. I spend a long time with my heart set on buying a CDL block but after looking at a lot of expensive engines with no guarantee, or service history. Or 'rebuilt' engines that seem to have been assembled from random used parts and cheap new parts. Iv'e given up on that idea.
So I got a loan, and started spending money.
Got the car out of the garage for the first time in months to make space for this:
Used BUL engine from an A4, high mileage but the seller did compression and oil pressure checks and all good (according to them)
Plan is to spruce this up a bit, and throw it in while I rebuild the old engine for powaaa!
Workshop tools purchased, there's an engine stand and lift still in boxes.
And alongside the engine there are a few other goodies to go in:
New upgraded radiator & silicon hoses
S3 intercooler
New AC radiator on the way
Strut brace
Downpipe with 200cel sports cat
Plan is to check and replace any bushings, maybe fit alloy (Passat) wishbones, and uprated engine mounts/ inserts etc.
Lastly I'm tired of looking at the stock rear end:
This just arrived from ingo noak in Germany.
It's going to be a busy couple of months!